The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
251 episodes - English - Latest episode: 10 months ago - ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsHosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
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Episodes
TBP 184 :: Carbs for Climbers - How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why
November 03, 2021 21:02 - 31 minutes - 56.9 MBTBP 184 :: Carbs for Climbers – How Much, What Kinds, Timing, and Why In this episode, I talk all about carbohydrates and how to use them properly in your diet to help your climbing performance, energy levels every day, overall mental well-being, and body composition. Carbs are a tricky topic because we’ve been taught to fear and hate them, even though in reality they’re what fuel strength and power activities. They’re also paramount to keeping your blood sugar and mood stable all day ev...
TBP 183 :: How to Break Into 5.13 with Alex Stiger
October 21, 2021 17:50 - 1 hour - 141 MBHow to Break Into 5.13 with Alex Stiger In the episode, Coach Alex and I tackled the topic of breaking into 5.13 and what you need to do physically and mentally to do it. We both share our experiences of our first 5.13’s, which were quite different actually, and our processes of projecting things that are hard for us. We talk about how to turn the try-hard switch on and off on hard routes, and how to stay focused and calm enough to not overgrip and get super pumped. We also talk abou...
TBP 182 :: How He Climbs Outside 4 Days a Week With a Demanding Job
October 14, 2021 18:25 - 1 hour - 128 MBTBP 182 :: How Brian Lichtenheld Climbs Outside 4 Days a Week With a Demanding Job Brian Lichtenheld is one of my close friends and one of my favorite climbing partners. I asked him to be on the show because I don’t know another non-professional climber who is more psyched on climbing, and I wanted to share his infectious positive attitude with you. No matter what season it is, Brian climbs outside a LOT. During the spring, summer, and fall, he’s basically outside 4 days per week, and ...
TBP 181 :: Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson
October 07, 2021 18:48Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson Dr. Evan Ingerson is a Doctor of Physical Therapy and Board Certified in Orthopedics who works at his practice Mend in Colorado. Evan is a physical therapist who specializes in treating rock climbers. He uses the most up-to-date evidence in his practice to get climbers out of pain faster. Evan works to identify the underlying cause of the problem and uses a combination of manual therapy and advanced exercises to return cl...
TBP 181 :: Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson
October 07, 2021 18:48Understanding and Assessing Your Injuries with Dr. Evan Ingerson Dr. Evan Ingerson is a Doctor of Physical Therapy and Board Certified in Orthopedics who works at his practice Mend in Colorado. Evan is a physical therapist who specializes in treating rock climbers. He uses the most up-to-date evidence in his practice to get climbers out of pain faster. Evan works to identify the underlying cause of the problem and uses a combination of manual therapy and advanced exercises to return cl...
TBP 180: Grades - How to Keep Your Ego in Check with Matt Pincus
September 30, 2021 23:07 - 55 minutes - 44.6 MBAbout Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. He’s currently taking 4 new clients, so if you’d like to work with him, you can sign up here. Matt created our Bouldering Training Program, which is a non-linear plan that will help you gain str...
TBP 179 :: How Small Changes to Her Diet Led to Big Changes in Her Climbing
September 24, 2021 05:17 - 1 hour - 136 MBI’m Taking New Nutrition Clients I’m currently taking on 5 new nutrition clients, so if you’re looking for help on optimizing your diet for climbing, or you have some other health issues you’d like help with, I’m here for you! You can find out more about my nutrition offerings here. About Laura Schmidt My original idea for this podcast was to have a former nutrition client on the show to do a refresher session with them. I thought I’d show you how I work with clients and let you lear...
TBP 178 :: Making the Most Out of A Bad Gym Session
September 13, 2021 18:48 - 1 hour - 122 MBNew Gymnastics Rings Workshop with Coach Alex Stiger Do you want to know more about using the gymnastics rings as a training tool for climbing? On Tuesday, October 6th at 6-7:30pm MDT, Climbing Coach Alex Stiger will be hosting a very affordable, 90-minute workshop where you’ll learn the key considerations for using gynmastics rings in your training plan. You’ll Learn… How to properly use the rings How to scale workouts for different ability levels How to avoid common, potentia...
TBP 177 :: Lor Sabourin on Coming Out + Mindset Advice for Climbers
September 01, 2021 20:45 - 1 hour - 140 MBAbout Lor Sabourin In the episode, I talk with Lor Sabourin, who is a successful climber and a mental training coach for The Warrior’s Way, where they travel to teach clinics and work one-to-one with climbers of all levels. Lor is also a graduate student on their way to becoming a counselor. I met Lor a long time ago at the base of Dinosaur Rock in the Flatirons, where I was struck by their calm demeanor and friendly smile. I’ve followed Lor on Instagram since then and have been contin...
Neely Quinn on The Nugget Climbing Podcast with Steven Dimmitt
August 25, 2021 20:10 - 1 hour - 197 MBI was interviewed on the Nugget! This is a re-post of an interview with me on the Nugget Climbing Podcast with host Steven Dimmitt. I love being on the other side of an interview occasionally, and Steven is a fantastic interviewer. We had some laughs, talked about some serious stuff, and I feel a little vulnerable about how much I shared personally, honestly. I'm an open book, but when it's recorded and put out to the world, it's a little nerve wracking! I hope you enjoy this interview ...
TBP 176 :: The Art of Trying Hard in Climbing
August 19, 2021 18:51 - 1 hour - 138 MBNew Running Class with Coach Alex Stiger Do you LOVE to run but don’t know how to fit it in with your climbing? In just a couple weeks, Climbing Coach Alex Stiger and Running Coach Sean Hopkins will be hosting a very affordable, 90-minute class where you’ll learn the key considerations for balancing training for climbing and running. You’ll Learn… Which strength training exercises are great for climbing and running How we can warm up appropriately to avoid injuries How running c...
TBP 175: Protein for Climbers 101 – How Much, What Kind, Timing, and Why
August 12, 2021 19:12 - 29 minutes - 53.7 MBWelcome to the New Nutrition Episodes I’m not sure why I haven’t done this before, but I’ll be publishing regular episodes on nutrition for climbers. Seeing as how I’m a nutrition professional, I should’ve been talking more about this topic all along! But it’s never too late, so here’s the first of many to come. A little about me, in case you didn’t know: After completing my Bachelor’s degree in Psychology and Zoology at the University of Wisconsin at Madison, I did a 4-year nutritio...
TBP 174 :: Caroline Treadway - The Film "Light" and Her Own Eating Disorder Struggles
August 05, 2021 17:17 - 1 hour - 160 MBAbout Caroline Treadway Caroline Treadway is a writer, a photographer, a film maker, and a climber. She recently released the documentary film “Light” about the eating disorder struggles of high profile rock climbers including Emily Harrington and Angie Payne. In this interview, we discuss why she made the film, what impact the film has made in her life, and then we go deeper into her own eating disorder as well as my experience with disordered eating behaviors. At the end, we even dis...
TBP 173 :: Training Adaptations for Short and Tall Climbers, Transitioning to Outside (Q&A)
August 01, 2021 16:00 - 35 minutes - 64.6 MBA while back I asked for questions about training and climbing for an episode that Coach Alex and I did together. Well, we got so many questions that we decided to do an entire episode answering some more of them. That full Q&A episode can be found on our Patreon page, but today I published half of the episode as a Sneak Preview on the main podcast so you can get some of that good beta, too. If you’d like to get bonus episodes from TrainingBeta, you can go over to Patreon where you can s...
TBP 172 :: 8 Tips for a Successful Performance Phase
July 29, 2021 19:09 - 1 hour - 48.9 MBAbout Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. Matt created our Bouldering Training Program, which is a non-linear plan that will help you gain strength, power, skills, and work capacity. There’s also a maintenance block worked into...
TBP 171 :: Training and Nutrition Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn
July 20, 2021 22:07 - 59 minutes - 48 MBSupport the Podcast on Patreon Nutrition and Training Q&A with Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn In this episode, Coach Alex and I answer questions from the TrainingBeta community about nutrition and training. We asked people on Instagram, email, and Facebook what they wanted to know about, and we answered as many questions as we could in about an hour. Alex is a Certified Personal Trainer, a Performance Climbing Coach, and a 5.13+ climber. She is a coach for TrainingBeta and for Movement...
TBE 170: Joy Black On Training During Pregnancy
July 14, 2021 15:43 - 1 hour - 112 MBIn the episode, Joy explains how to stay empowered as a pregnant athlete, a brief breakdown of what changes occur during each trimester, and most importantly, she provides direction on what you should learn more about as a pregnant athlete. Joy also discusses the importance of strength training during pregnancy with key consideration of the pelvic floor, diaphragm, and deep core muscles. She also addresses how important of a factor mindset is during pregnancy and normalizes a lot of th...
TBP 169 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on New Insights for Finger Training
June 09, 2021 23:33 - 1 hour - 148 MBAbout Tyler Nelson UPDATE: Matt Pincus recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for our individual needs based on his latest research. By utilizing various testing he has discovered that our hand size and ability to recover can be a factor in which protocols are l...
TBP 168 :: Coach Alex Stiger on Training Methods for Females
April 28, 2021 17:57 - 59 minutes - 109 MBFemales in Climbing In this episode I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how females can train more efficiently and effectively using their menstrual cycle as a guide. Alex Stiger is a dedicated climber who lives in Longmont, Colorado. She’s sent up to 5.13d and is an avid boulderer. She improved her climbing very quickly using efficient training. She is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, TRX certified, and she’s completed Stacy Sims’ Women Are Not Small Men course. ...
TBP 167: Coach Lauren Abernathy on Succeeding at More Than One Sport
April 15, 2021 16:02 - 1 hour - 130 MBAbout Lauren Abernathy Lauren Abernathy is a climbing coach out of Salt Lake City who recently left her corporate job to be a full-time coach. You can find her at www.goodsprayclimbing.com. In this interview we talk about how her transition to being a full-time coach has been for her (spoiler: it’s going really well and she loves it). Lauren is a passionate skier as well as a climber, so we also talk about how she’s learned to effectively do both at the same time. She’s had some great ...
TBP 166: ClimbWell Founders on Balancing Climbing and Life
March 11, 2021 18:56 - 1 hour - 135 MBAbout ClimbWell ClimbWell is a new organization founded by Remy Franklin, Gaby Colletta, and Blake Cason whose mission is to provide resources for climbers to help them grow in their climbing and in life in general. Remy is a life coach, Gaby is a Meditation + Yoga Instructor and Ayurvedic Health Counselor, and Blake is a Wellness Coach, and they are all passionate about climbing. They have a 4-day retreat coming up in April in Veyo, Utah that will help climbers with the following topi...
TBP 165: Matt Pincus on Training for Bouldering
March 08, 2021 19:16 - 1 hour - 120 MBAbout Matt Pincus Announcement: Matt recently created a new bouldering program with 3 levels to choose from. In this non-linear training program, you’ll train strength, skills, power, and work capacity. Learn more about the program. In this interview, I talk with Matt Pincus about how to train for bouldering and we explain our new bouldering training program. Matt is our in-house Remote Climbing Coach at TrainingBeta, and he’s an expert at training for bouldering, having sent up to V12 and...
TBP 164 :: Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn on Getting through Injuries without Losing Your Mind
February 08, 2021 20:45 - 1 hour - 130 MBAbout Alex Stiger Coach Alex Stiger recently had surgery on her finger to repair a ligament she tore when she accidentally smashed it on a hold while bouldering. I also just had surgery on my wrist (same surgeon, one month apart), so we’ve been in almost daily communication about our progress, frustrations, and small victories as we recover. Between the two of us, we’ve had a handful of pretty serious injuries, so we thought we’d discuss how we’ve dealt with those setbacks and the lesson...
TBP 163 :: Eric Hörst on Training for Climbers Over 35
January 20, 2021 22:26 - 1 hour - 126 MBAbout Eric Hörst In this episode, I talk to Eric Hörst about how older climbers (over 35) can change their training to avoid injury and fatigue while still being as strong as ever. Eric Hörst is a well-known climbing trainer, having written some of the most popular books on the topic, including How to Climb 5.12, Training for Climbing, and Maximum Climbing. He’s a climber in his 50’s who still climbs as hard as ever (5.13 redpoints) due to his smart training methods, which he’s catered t...
TBP 162 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers
January 07, 2021 18:47 - 56 minutes - 103 MBAbout Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains how we should be training our fingers for endurance climbing. Normally, we’re training strength or strength endurance on the hangboard by hanging with bodyweight, a pulley syste...
TBP 161 :: Madeleine Crane on Overcoming the Fear of Falling
December 23, 2020 20:20 - 1 hour - 146 MBAbout Madeleine Crane Madeleine Crane is a sport psychologist (M.Sc.) and systemic coach located in Hohenems, Austria. She is the founder and CEO of ClimbingPsychology.com and the creator of the Fear of Falling Masterclass for Climbers. Madeleine has a Masters degree in psychology from the University of Innsbruck and specializes in sport psychology. Due to her personal background in climbing, her main focus is on the psychology in climbing. She has been climbing, learning and explori...
TBP 160 :: Dietitian Marisa Michael Explains Intuitive Eating
December 09, 2020 19:33 - 1 hour - 128 MBAbout Marisa Michael Marisa Michael is a dietitian, a personal trainer, and an athlete. She’s been a dietitian for 18 years and has a private practice at RealNutritionLLC.com where she helps athletes optimize nutrition for sports performance, from recreational to elite. While she has mainly focused on running and triathlons, 6 years ago when her son got into climbing, she followed suit. The reason I wanted to speak with Marisa is that she has a lot of knowledge about Intuitive Eating, ...
TBP 159: Alex Stiger on How Climbing Harder Made Her A Better Coach
November 11, 2020 19:21 - 59 minutes - 109 MBAbout Alex Stiger Alex Stiger is a Certified Personal Trainer, Sports Performance Coach, and Head Coach at Movement Climbing + Fitness in Boulder Colorado. Alex spends most of her week working with clients of all levels and ages to help them reach their climbing goals. She has climbed 5.13d and is currently working towards her goal of climbing 5.14. Beyond all of that, though, Alex is one of my best friends and a super dedicated trainer/coach. I’ve watched her improve her climbing expone...
TBP 158 :: Diana Rodgers on How Meat Can Help the Environment and Our Health
October 28, 2020 19:39 - 1 hour - 58.3 MBAbout Diana Rodgers Diana Rodgers, RD, LDN is a Licensed Registered Dietitian who helps people regain their health through proper nutrition. Her website is www.sustainabledish.com, where you’ll find blog posts and other useful resources to learn more about eating well. She recently co-wrote a book with Robb Wolf called Sacred Cow: The Case for (Better) Meat: Why Well-Raised Meat Is Good for You and Good for the Planet. She also produced a film, Sacred Cow: The Case for (Better) Meat and...
TBP 157 :: John Brosler on Training for Speed Climbing
October 14, 2020 18:27 - 1 hour - 123 MBAbout John Brosler John Brosler is a 23-year-old professional climber who specializes in competitive speed climbing. He currently lives in Fort Collins, Colorado, and was featured in the highly entertaining and educational 2018 Reel Rock film “Up to Speed.” John is a sponsored climber, and according to his bio page on La Sportiva, these are some of his proudest accomplishments: 1. 6-time Open Speed National Champion 2. National speed climbing record holder 3. 2018 Pan-Amercian Speed C...
TBP 156 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Hip Injuries
October 07, 2020 13:00 - 1 hour - 159 MBInterview Details: Dr. Jared Vagy on Hip Injuries Dr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist, and he’s a climber who’s incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about common hip injuries in climbers and what to do about them. It’s super in-depth and he describes exact protocols to use on hip injuries, so I hope it helps you out. More Details Why healthy hips are important for climbing What the most common hip injuries are How shoulder pain...
TBP 155 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training
September 30, 2020 17:42 - 58 minutes - 107 MBAbout Tyler Nelson Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and injuries. Learn more. In this interview, Tyler explains why we should be training power differently in climbing than we typically do. Normally, we’re training power at very high intensities as in the campus board. However, in climbi...
TBP 154 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Increasing Energy Levels with Nutrition
August 24, 2020 19:07 - 1 hour - 132 MBAbout Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill In this episode, I had a conversation with my friend and fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, about how to increase your energy levels using food. What you consume and when you consume it can have profound effects on your energy levels, and we’ll discuss the ins and outs of all of them. Even if you don’t “struggle” with energy levels, it’s quite possible that your energy could be even more on-point than it is now, and that can be low hanging fru...
TBP 153 :: Chelsea Murn on Women's Specific Training and Nutrition Needs
August 12, 2020 19:21 - 59 minutes - 109 MBAbout Chelsea Murn Chelsea Murn is a Certified Health Coach and a climbing coach at LadyBetaCoaching.com who specializes in females’ training and health needs. She’s also a business coach for females in the climbing community, and in this interview we talk about all of that. Chelsea has caught my eye recently with her blogging at LadyBeta, and because she’s one of the only people talking about women’s specific training needs. We talked about women’s specific needs in climbing training an...
TBP 152 :: Juliet Hammer on Weight Training and Racism in Climbing
July 29, 2020 20:11 - 1 hour - 149 MBI talk with Juliet Hammer about strength training for climbing using weights, compensating for being a short climber, what to focus on with your training during the pandemic, and racism in the climbing community.
TBP 151 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Body Image and Disordered Eating in Climbers
July 15, 2020 19:13 - 1 hour - 177 MBAbout Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill In this episode, I had a conversation with my friend and fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, about body image and disordered eating behaviors in climbers. We both have experienced negative body image and have worked with client on body image and disordered eating behaviors. We discuss candidly our own experiences with it all and provide tips on how to balance your diet to get all the nutrients you need while maintaining your optimal, healthy body...
TBP 150 :: Matt Pincus on Returning to Climbing after a Long Break
June 16, 2020 21:16 - 50 minutes - 92.2 MBI talk with Matt Pincus about how to return to climbing after a long break. We discuss everything from frustrations about being weak to reassessing goals.
TBP 149 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Role of Stretching for Climbers
June 02, 2020 17:09 - 58 minutes - 107 MBIn this interview, Dr. Tyler Nelson explains why climbers need to stretch, when to stretch, and what type of stretching is appropriate at different times.
TBP 148 :: Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill on Nutrition for Climbers during Quarantine and Beyond
May 04, 2020 20:00 - 1 hour - 150 MBI had a conversation with fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, RDN, about how we can eat to truly nourish ourselves during quarantine and beyond.
TBP 147 :: Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall on Best Practices for Training at Home
April 09, 2020 17:21 - 1 hour - 143 MBIn this interview, I talked with trainers Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall about how they're guiding their clients to train at home during the COVID-19 pandemic.
TBP 146 :: Matt Pincus on Climbing Training at Home During COVID-19
March 24, 2020 16:42 - 1 hour - 158 MBI talk with Matt Pincus about how to approach train at home during COVID-19, how we're training, our recommended equipment, and some workouts you can do.
TBP 145 :: Mark Campbell on TRX Training for Climbers
March 12, 2020 18:36 - 1 hour - 143 MBMark Campbell teaches us how to use the TRX to train our core and become stronger climbers. He went from V0 to V8 in 2 months, partly due to TRX training.
TBP 144 :: Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz Fame on Crack Climbing Training
February 26, 2020 22:04 - 1 hour - 112 MBI talked with Pete Whittaker of Wide Boyz fame about how he trains for hard offwidth and trad climbs, and about his new book on crack climbing.
TBP 143 :: Sport Psychologist Chris Heilman Does A Session with Neely
February 06, 2020 18:35 - 1 hour - 107 MBI talked with sports psychologist, Dr. Chris Heilman, about how she works with people and then she does a session with me, Neely Quinn.
TBP 142 :: Zahan Billimoria on Core Training for Climbing
January 22, 2020 21:01 - 1 hour - 110 MBIn this interview I talk with coach, climber, and mountain guide, Zahan Billimoria, about how (and why) to strengthen your core for rock climbing.
TBP 141: Marisa Michael on Disordered Eating and RED-S in Climbers
January 15, 2020 21:16 - 1 hour - 98.2 MBDietitian Marisa Michael discusses disordered eating and RED-S in climbers, including research she and colleagues have done on the topics.
TBP 140: Mercedes Pollmeier on Mobility and Technique Drills
December 18, 2019 20:36 - 1 hour - 89.2 MBMercedes Pollmeier talks about the importance of mobility work in climbing, and 5 technique drills she uses to improve climbing skills and strength.
TBP 139: Coach Bradley Hilbert on Youth Team Training Methods
December 05, 2019 01:30 - 1 hour - 104 MBBradley Hilbert, head coach of one of the best youth teams in the U.S., talks about cutting edge training tactics and the importance of values in teams.
Marina Inoue on Short-Person Training and Body Image Issues
November 27, 2019 20:50 - 1 hour - 93.5 MBMarina Inoue talks about specific training for shorties, why she loves living in her van, and some body image issues that a lot of people can relate with.
TBP 137: Kris Hampton - 6 Movement Drills to Improve Your Climbing
November 22, 2019 21:07 - 1 hour - 102 MBI talk with Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing about the most important movement drills he uses in his own climbing and with his clients.