The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
251 episodes - English - Latest episode: 10 months ago - ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsHosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
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Episodes
Ask Kris :: Finger Strength Training Mini Episode
March 29, 2016 21:53 - 21 minutes - 19.5 MBNew Mini Episodes! We're going to do something new on the podcast every week (or as often as we can). Kris Peters and I will be tackling a specific subject and hashing some details out for about 15 minutes. We'll also take questions from you guys and answer them on these episodes. This week, we decided to start with finger training, since it's such a popular topic. Kris Peters is a climbing trainer who's worked with some of the strongest climbers in the world, as well as a ton of regular ...
TBP 048 :: Neil Gresham on Training for 5.11 and 5.12
March 24, 2016 20:04 - 1 hour - 67.5 MBAbout Neil Gresham Neil Gresham is a British climber and trainer who's been training people for about 20 years now. He's the training columnist at both Climbing and Rock & Ice magazines, and has written extensively on the topic. At 44, he's still pushing his limits on sport climbs (14b last year), ice climbs, and deep water solos, among other types of climbing. Although he has no formal background in training (I'm finding that to be irrelevant in these interviews), he's studied the lite...
TBP 047 :: Jorg Verhoeven on The Nose, V15, and World Cup Training
March 14, 2016 18:12 - 1 hour - 67.7 MBAbout Jorg Verhoeven Jorg Verhoeven is a professional Dutch climber who lives and trains in Austria. He's done about 150 world cups (in both bouldering and routes), and he won the Overall Lead World Cup in 2008 and was World Youth Champion twice. He did the 4th free ascent of The Nose on El Cap (5.14), and he recently did Wheel of Life (V15). He was on the cover of Climbing magazine for his historic repeat of The Nose, which further piqued my interest in this all-around badass climber. I w...
TBP 046 :: Neely Quinn on Weight Loss for Climbers
March 07, 2016 19:02 - 32 minutes - 30 MBAbout Neely Quinn Neely is your host for the podcast every week, but she's also a practicing nutrition therapist, and has been since about 2007. She's helped hundreds of people lose weight and get closer to optimal health. She takes an individualized approach to nutrition, and in this podcast episode she tackles weight loss for climbers and how to approach it properly (if you need to approach it at all). Weight Loss for Climbers Calories Carbs Food Sensitivities When to see a doctor ...
TBP 045 :: Ethan Pringle on Jumbo Love 15b, The Nest V15, and Depression
February 24, 2016 19:38 - 1 hour - 64.4 MBAbout Ethan Pringle Ethan Pringle is a 29 year-old professional rock climber who's had immense success in the competition scene as well as on real rock. He made the 2nd ascent of Jumbo Love (5.15b) and has done a few V14s and is working on his first V15 (The Nest). He's an all around strong, determined climber, and I wanted to know what makes him tick. What We Talked About How he prepared for Jumbo Love How he stayed motivated on Jumbo Love for 7 years How depression has affected him an...
TBP 044 :: Matt Helliker on Training for Alpine Climbing
February 16, 2016 20:29 - 1 hour - 72.6 MBAbout Matt Helliker Matt Helliker is a notable alpinist who's done quite a few first ascents. He's originally from England, but now lives, climbs, and guides in Chamonix, France. As an ice climber, a mixed climber, a trad climber, a sport climber, and a boulderer, I was really interested in knowing how Matt trains to stay strong for it all. You can find out more about him and his first ascents on his athlete page at Patagonia and on his personal site. What We Talked About What winter alp...
TBP 043 :: Neely Explains the Ketogenic Diet
February 10, 2016 00:48 - 24 minutes - 22.5 MBI've been hearing more and more about the ketogenic diet in the climbing world. For instance, Dave MacLeod and Neil Gresham have had success with it and I expect that a lot of people will want to try it for themselves. I researched the diet quite a bit a few years back and then experimented with it on my own. I've helped nutrition clients onboard to a ketogenic diet, and I've talked with a lot of people about the difficulties and successes they've had with it. It's a really interesting top...
TBP 042 :: David Mason on Training for V14
February 03, 2016 18:30 - 1 hour - 71.8 MBAbout David Mason David Mason is a British boulderer who's climbed up to V13/14 (King of Limbs in South Africa) and many boulders between V10 and V13. In 2014, he managed to send 20 boulder problems between V11 and V13 during a 17-day trip to Vastervik, Sweden. He's a Senior Coach at The Climbing Works, a gym in Sheffield, England, and he does personal training/coaching for people there. He's known for his relentless training, and that's what we talked about in this interview. What We Tal...
TBP 041 :: Matt Lloyd and His Climbing/CrossFit Hybrid Gym
January 27, 2016 19:28 - 1 hour - 68.2 MBDate: January 27th, 2016 About Matt Lloyd Matt Lloyd is a long-time friend of my husband, Seth, having started climbing on the same team in Denver about 15 years ago. He's known for his bold R and X-rated ascents, and now for having started a small gym in Denver called Mountain Strong that's devoted to training for climbing. What We Talked About How he prepares for free solos His hardest sends Why he built a gym devoted to training for climbing How olympic lifts and crossfit workouts hel...
TBP 040 :: Nina Williams on Training for V13, Comps, and Diet
January 06, 2016 18:35 - 1 hour - 61.1 MBAbout Nina Williams Nina Williams is a boulderer (and budding trad climber) who lives and trains in Boulder, CO. She's climbed V13 and she won the Dark Horse comp in 2015, but she spends most of her energy climbing outdoors and training for that. Being a full-time sponsored climber, she's able to travel often, and she's spent time in Australia, South Africa, Switzerland, Hueco Tanks, and other popular climbing destinations. I sat down with Nina to talk about how she trains, what she eats, h...
TBP 039 :: Dave MacLeod on Training, Injuries, Diet, and Fear
December 31, 2015 22:08 - 1 hour - 70.8 MBAbout Dave MacLeod Dave MacLeod is one of the most famous climbers, having put up many first ascents of sport, boulder, mixed, and trad climbs. Honestly, I'm not going to do him justice with a short introduction of his climbing and career, as he's accomplished so much in his 37 years. So here's his Wikipedia page. Please read it - it's fascinating. What We Talked About His climbing career How he's trained for different projects How mixed climbing helps him to train for sport and tra...
TBP 038 :: Tom Randall on His Nerdy Training Methods
December 16, 2015 21:02 - 1 hour - 70.7 MBAbout Tom Randall Tom Randall is one of the infamous Wide Boyz offwidth climbers from Sheffield, England. He's climbed 5.14 offwidth, trad, and sport climbs, and he's a professional climbing trainer as well. He and his team at Lattice Training put hard science and historical data from other climbers into their training plans and robust assessments of their clients. He's pretty nerdy, in the best way possible. What We Talked About His assessment of Seth's climbing strengths and weaknes...
TBP 037 :: Thomasina Pidgeon on Climbing V12 at Age 40
December 07, 2015 18:30 - 1 hour - 63.2 MBPodcast is on iTunes is HERE Direct Download: LINK Date: December 7th, 2015 About Thomasina Pidgeon Thomasina Pidgeon is a Canadian boulderer - one of the strongest Canadian female climbers, actually, having done over 40 boulders V11 to V12. She's also competed quite a bit, and been quite successful on national and international levels. She does this at the age of 40, all while living out of her van, which she's done since she was 19 years old, and while raising her 9 year-old daughter. ...
TBP 036 :: Steve Bechtel Interview #2
November 25, 2015 22:10 - 1 hour - 67.3 MBAbout Steve Bechtel I was honored and excited to interview the great Steve Bechtel for a second time. Steve is a long-time climber and trainer who knows his stuff when it comes to getting strong, catering to individual training needs, and staying lean, among many other things. Steve runs ClimbStrong.com, a website where he writes articles and training programs for climbers. You can subscribe to the site to get full access to all of his info. He also runs a gym in Lander, WY called Element...
TBP 035 :: Isabelle Faus on Sending V14
November 18, 2015 20:22 - 1 hour - 58 MBAbout Isabelle Faus Isabelle Faus is a 22 year-old boulderer out of Boulder, CO. (Yes, I know that a lot of my guests are from Boulder, but there are just so many amazing climbers here!) Isabelle climbed her first V14 in South Africa recently, and has done several V13's, including Nuthin' but Sunshine in a day. She also just started sport climbing and did her first 5.14a the other day. She'll tell you all about her climbing, training, and diet in this episode. What We Talked About Her bo...
TBP 034 :: Justen Sjong on Improving Your Mental Game
November 11, 2015 21:24 - 1 hour - 55.9 MBAbout Justen Sjong Justen Sjong is a prolific climbing coach out of Colorado, who's also had a successful climbing career, having established up to 5.14a big walls with none other than Tommy Caldwell, and crushing 5.14 sport climbs across the globe. He currently works out of Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder and does online coaching via www.climbingsensei.com. He has a thing or two to say about climbers improving their mental game and becoming better climbers overall. What We Talke...
TBP 033 :: Will Anglin on Training Efficiently
November 04, 2015 01:43 - 1 hour - 67.5 MBTrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes Date: November 4th, 2015 (Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.) About Will Anglin Will Anglin is a 27 year-old climber and head climbing trainer at Earth Treks in Golden, CO. He minored in Exercise Physiology in college and is a certified personal trainer, and he's studied climbing training quite a bit. He trains people in person and online. One of the reasons I wanted to interview him is that he's not only a well-respected trainer, but also ...
TBP 032 :: Nathan Drolet (Average Joe Climber) Trains Smart and Climbs Hard
October 05, 2015 20:48 - 1 hour - 61.3 MBDate: October 5th, 2015 Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. Holy cats. ==>> Get The Discount About Nathan Drolet We met Nathan Drolet in the Red River Gorge a couple years ago when his badass girlfriend, Natalie Hawley, was projecting 8 Ball ...
TBP 031 :: Ben Moon on Training and Climbing Through The Decades
August 20, 2015 18:59 - 58 minutes - 53.8 MBDirect Download: LINK Date: August 20th, 2015 About Ben Moon Ben Moon is an iconic climber from England who's accomplished much in his 40-year climbing career. He's 49 years old and just sent 9a (5.14d) this year, after having put up the first of the same grade in 1990 ("Hubble" in France). He's bouldered up to V14, and he does all this while running a successful climbing company called Moon Climbing and raising a child with his wife. He also created the classic Moon Board and the Moon Fi...
TBP 030 :: Jon Cardwell on How He Climbs Hard Routes and Boulders
August 12, 2015 16:25 - 1 hour - 59.1 MBDirect Download: LINK Date: August 12th, 2015 (Get 10% off Armaid by using "climb" at checkout.) About Jon Cardwell Jon Cardwell is a 26 year-old Albuquerque native living in Boulder, Colorado, who climbs 5.14d and V15, along with being one of the top male bouldering competitors in the U.S. He's a sponsored climber and also holds jobs as a route setter and youth climbing coach at Movement Climbing and Fitness in Boulder. I've been hearing all about him crushing Rifle and the Fortr...
TBP 029 :: Climbing Trainer Adam Macke on MAT and Weight Training
July 29, 2015 17:25 - 1 hour - 61.8 MBDate: July 29th, 2015 Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. Holy cats. ==>> Get The Discount About Adam Macke Adam Macke (pronounced "Mackey") is a climbing trainer out of Chattanooga, TN. He works with people out of High Point Climbing and Fitness...
TBP 028 :: Neely Quinn on Nutrition for Climbers
July 24, 2015 19:12 - 51 minutes - 47.5 MBAbout Neely Quinn I (Neely Quinn) am a Nutrition Therapist and a 5.13 rock climber, owner of TrainingBeta, and someone who's obsessed over food, health, and climbing performance since 1999. I've helped thousands of people find their optimal diet, lose weight, and be the best athlete they can be. My nutrition work lives at www.neelyquinn.com. As the host of the TrainingBeta podcast, I'm generally not the one in the spotlight in these interviews, but in this episode, I put my hide on the li...
TBP 027 :: Kevin Jorgeson Talks about The Dawn Wall and Highballs
July 09, 2015 22:23 - 1 hour - 65.2 MBDate: July 9th, 2015 About Kevin Jorgeson After the Dawn Wall, Kevin Jorgeson needs no introduction really. Even my grandmother knows his name (and I'm not joking about that). Before the Dawn Wall, I knew Kevin for his highball bouldering; I knew him as a bold, strong-headed climber. After his send of Ambrosia (55-ft V11 in Bishop), he wanted something different to challenge him, so he called up Tommy Caldwell and asked him if he needed a partner for the Dawn Wall. What We Talked About I...
TBP 026 :: Dr. Lisa Erikson on Preventing and Healing Injuries
July 03, 2015 18:34 - 1 hour - 62.7 MBClimbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. ==>> Get The Discount About Dr. Lisa Erikson Dr. Lisa Erikson is a chiropractor out of Boulder, CO with a specialization in Sports Chiropractic and Chiropractic Biomechanics of Posture. She works spec...
TBP 025:: Steve Maisch
June 22, 2015 17:11 - 1 hour - 62.3 MBAbout Steve Maisch Steve Maisch is a local SLC strong man and renowned training guru. If you’ve ever run into Steve at the cliff, you know how humble and unassuming he is. Once he pulls onto the wall though, his immense power and strength speak for themselves. He makes very hard moves look easy. Clearly, his training works, and not only for himself. He's had awesome success training other people as a side project of his. What We Talked About How he went from climbing V10 to V13 using a...
TBP 024::Hazel Findlay on Humility and Being Brave
June 10, 2015 18:08 - 1 hour - 67.7 MBDate: June 10th, 2015 About Hazel Findlay By the time she was 23, Hazel Findlay had made a name for herself as the first woman to send E9 (basically 5.13d but with death fall potential). The British phenom can been seen in videos doing sketchy climbing way above her bolt or gear with seemingly no fear. She started climbing at the age of 7 with her dad, quickly moved up the ranks as a comp climber, and then eventually followed her heart to outdoor climbing, where she's now traveled the glob...
TBP 023 :: Arno Ilgner on Overcoming Fear and Ego in Climbing
June 03, 2015 22:11 - 1 hour - 64.2 MBAbout Arno Ilgner Arno Ilgner is known in the climbing community for his work helping people overcoming fears and be overall mentally stronger. He began climbing and quickly realized that the mental aspect of it was paramount to sending hard climbs. So he started studying up, and resonated with the Warrior's Way philosophy he found in the Carlo Castaneda books about Don Juan. He started applying those tenets to climbing, and soon had an entire program built upon them. He now has books, cli...
TBP 022: Bill Ramsey on Sending 14b at Age 54
May 27, 2015 22:39 - 1 hour - 64 MBDate: May 27th, 2015 About Bill Ramsey Bill Ramsey is a legend among climbers, having put up classic first ascents in the Red River Gorge years ago such as Omaha Beach (14a), Golden Boy (13b), and many others. He's 55 years old and he just sent his 3-year project at the Cathedral near St. George, UT, called "Golden for A Moment" (5.14b). 5.14b is about as hard as Bill has ever climbed, even in his 20's and 30's, so with such a huge accomplishment under his belt, I wanted to ask him so...
TBP 021:: Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight, and Crowdfunding
May 20, 2015 23:06 - 1 hour - 76.8 MBAbout Alex Puccio Alex "The Pucc" Puccio is the strongest female American boulderer, and the most accomplished female American bouldering competitor. She's won ABS Nationals 9 times, and has medaled 13 times in Bouldering World Cup events since 2009. Her goal this year is to be the overall IFSC World Cup Bouldering champ and to climb V15. She was the 4th woman to climb V14 (Jade and then Wheel of Chaos in Rocky Mountain), she's climbed 7 V13's, and she's done all of this in the past year....
TBP 020 :: Alex Barrows on Training for His First 5.14d
May 14, 2015 19:39 - 1 hour - 64.9 MBAbout Alex Barrows I met Alex Barrows in Rodellar in 2011 when he introduced himself as the Duke of Barrows, which we believed for several hours. It would've been so cool if that had been true, but alas. He's just a British PhD student at Sheffield University with a hilarious sense of humor. He's also really strong, despite his rigorous school schedule and lack of good weather where he lives. When I met Alex, he was trying really hard on a 14a for weeks. Then I saw him a couple years late...
TBP 019 :: Eric Hörst on Training Methods for Adults and Kids
April 28, 2015 20:59 - 1 hour - 67.8 MBAbout Eric Hörst Eric Hörst is a well-known climbing trainer, having written some of the first books on the topic, including How to Climb 5.12, Training for Climbing, and Maximum Climbing. He's a 50-year old climber who still climbs as hard as ever (5.13 redpoints) due to his smart training methods, which he's catered to himself to fit his mature body. His 2 boys are living proof of his training methods, regularly climbing 5.14's by the time they were each 11 years old. Eric keeps an active...
Training Q&A Session #2
April 27, 2015 19:40 - 32 minutes - 30.1 MBThis is a recording of our second live Q&A call dedicated to training for climbing. Answering the questions are: Kris Peters - Climbing Trainer Neely Quinn - Nutritionist and 5.13 climber Seth Lytton - Training geek and 5.14 climber Hope you can join us for the next one! The sound quality isn't super great on this because it's an actual phone call, but we're working on it!
TBP 018 :: Mike Doyle on Training for Necessary Evil, and Having A Career While Still Climbing Hard
March 30, 2015 18:00 - 1 hour - 63.4 MBDirect Download: LINK Date: March 30th, 2015 About Mike Doyle Mike Doyle is a full time(+) computer programmer in his late 30's who crushes hard rock climbs. He's a Vegas local who has devoted the last several seasons to the route Necessary Evil (classic 5.14c) in the Virgin River Gorge, and finally sent it this past spring. He's Canadian, and helped train Sean McColl back when he was training youth competition climbers and competing himself. He's climbed all over the world, having sent ...
TBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things Training
February 18, 2015 21:29 - 1 hour - 65.2 MBI was honored that Adam Ondra took time out of his very busy day (he's a full time student and trains for climbing a LOT) to let me pick his brain about climbing and training. I hope you like this interview! About Adam Ondra He doesn't really need much of an introduction, does he? He's debatably the strongest overall climber in the world, having the most impressive climbing resume I've ever even imagined. Here's what his Wikipedia page has to say about him. He is the only athlete to have ...
TBP 016 :: Steph Davis on Training for Alpine, Sport Climbing, Free Soloing, FFAs, and Veganism
February 10, 2015 02:04 - 1 hour - 64.9 MBI got to sit down with the great Steph Davis the other day and chat about her training for climbing, her vast accomplishments, her FFAs, her free soloing exploits, her diet, her wing suit flying, and all kinds of other stuff. About Steph Davis I can't really do her resumé justice, so I'm just going to let her Wikipedia page do it for me. Stephanie "Steph" Davis (born 1973) is an American rock climber, BASE jumper and wingsuit flyer. She is one of the world's leading female climbers, havin...
Free Q&A Webinar-1: Kris Peters & Seth Lytton.mp3
February 05, 2015 20:44 - 1 hour - 27.9 MBThis is a recording of the free Q&A webinar that we hosted on 2-2-15. Chris and Seth answered training questions from anyone who called. Questions are focused on general training and specific questions about the training programs offered on TrainingBeta.
TBP 015 :: Heather Weidner on Trying Hard and Sticking with Projects
January 07, 2015 23:07 - 1 hour - 58.5 MBIt's been FOREVER since I published a podcast episode and I'm really sorry for the inconsistency! My surgery and ensuing weirdness has had me away from working very much at all, but I'm hoping to start putting podcasts up again on a regular basis. About Heather Alright, so this episode is with my friend, Heather Weidner (nee Robinson), who is a badass sport and trad climber, having redpointed Stockboy's Revenge (5.14b) in Rifle this summer and Must'a Been High (5.13c R) in Eldorado Canyon ...
TBP 014 :: Physical Therapist Jared Vagy on Injury Prevention and Treatment
November 01, 2014 01:14 - 1 hour - 71.1 MBAbout Dr. Jared Vagy I am so excited to put this podcast out! Holy crap. This is some MUCH NEEDED info for climbers of all kinds, and I really hope you listen to the whole thing. Jared Vagy is a PhD physical therapist who also happens to be a rock climber who's had a lot of injuries. He works with athletes of all kinds and does special phone/skype and in-person assessments and sessions with climbers all over the world. He's written a book just for us on how to prevent and treat common c...
TBP 013 :: Hans Florine on Speed Climbing The Nose and Training for It
October 22, 2014 18:50 - 1 hour - 67.1 MBAbout Hans Florine This is from Wikipedia because I couldn't possibly sum this up any better. Hans Florine has a long and storied history on El Cap, and in particular on The Nose. Here goes: Hans Florine (born June 18, 1964)[3][4][5] is an American rock climber, who together withAlex Honnold holds the Speed Climb World Record for climbing The Nose of Yosemite’s El Capitan in 2:23:46 (2 hours, 23 minutes and 46 seconds), set on June 17, 2012[6] which broke the previous record of 2:36.45 ...
TBP 012 :: Alli Rainey on Training, Cardio, and Body Weight
September 22, 2014 18:41 - 1 hour - 64.1 MBAbout Alli Rainey Alli Rainey is a long-time climber and route developer, having put up a ton of routes in Ten Sleep Wyoming and boulder problems in Cody, Wyoming. She's redpointed several 14a's in Ten Sleep and done more than 90 5.13s up to 5.13d all over the world. She got into training for climbing a while back when she realized that she wasn't the greatest at steep powerful climbing (not much of that in Ten Sleep) and needed to train to improve. Since then, she's studied the art and...
TBP 011 :: Dan Mirsky on Staying Strong on the Road, Training for Rifle, and Whether Running Helps Him Send
August 26, 2014 23:31 - 1 hour - 56.2 MBAbout Dan Mirsky Dan Mirsky is an understated crusher. I've been watching him gracefully take down rock climbs in Rifle for as long as I've been climbing there. Last year we witnessed his fitness (literally) in The Red when we were next door neighbors at Lago Linda's last year. And then a few months later he was kind enough to show us around The Cathedral/Wailing Wall, giving Seth and me encyclopedic beta on the entire crag from the ground. He chucked a couple laps on Golden (14b) that d...
TBP :: 010 Kris Peters on All Things Training, Team of 2, TrainingBeta, and Cardio
August 06, 2014 19:47 - 1 hour - 55.7 MBHooray!! I finally did an interview with my favorite climbing trainer, Kris Peters! He's been working on TrainingBeta with us since basically the beginning, so I've had plenty of time to get to know and love this guy. He's kind of intimidating on the outside (big muscles, beard, hardass trainer), but he's a playful teddy bear on the inside. What I've noticed is that while he jokes a lot with his clients, he takes their workouts and progress VERY seriously, and puts his all into their succe...
TBP 009 :: Mark and Mike Anderson on Their Book, J-Star, and How Less Is More
June 30, 2014 05:03 - 1 hour - 73.4 MBI'm psyched to introduce this podcast with the Anderson brothers, Mark and Mike. We did a longer-than-usual interview this time, partly because there were two of them and mostly because they have a lot of advice to give. For the uninitiated, Mark and Mike are the Rock Prodigy guys, the authors of the new book The Rock Climber's Training Manual. They're the trainers who helped J-Star turn his training methods around in order to do "Biographie" (or "Realization", 5.15a), but they also have imp...
TBP 008 :: Alex Johnson on Training, Hard Female Ascents, and The Swarm
June 02, 2014 06:26 - 57 minutes - 53.1 MBDownload on iTunes Direct Download RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss After many months of trying to find a time that worked for both of our crazy schedules, Alex Johnson and I finally sat down and had a conversation about her climbing, training, eating, and other aspects of her life. Alex Johnson is an athlete on The North Face team, and she travels the world as a professional climber. She has some V12 ascents under her belt, she's a 2-time world cup winner and 5-time nation...
TBP 007 :: Steve Bechtel on Training, Power Endurance, Running, Weight Loss, and More
May 19, 2014 06:00 - 51 minutes - 47.2 MBDownload on iTunes RSS Feed - http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss I was honored and excited to interview the great Steve Bechtel, a long-time climber and trainer who knows his stuff when it comes to getting strong, honing in on individual training needs, and staying lean, among many other things. Steve runs ClimbStrong.com, a website where he writes articles and training programs for climbers. You can subscribe to the site to get full access to all of his info. He also runs a gym in Lander...
TBP 006: A Talk with Kris Hampton about Training, Rapping, 14a, and TrainingBeta
May 03, 2014 01:58 - 52 minutes - 48.1 MBThis interview is with Kris Hampton, a climber, trainer, artist, business owner, and all around great guy. I met him last fall at his home crag, the Red River Gorge, when we both had projects in the Motherlode (I was on Snooker and he was on Transworld Depravity). He's a super chill, obviously smart guy, and we were quick friends. It wasn't long 'til he was writing the 8-Week Endurance Training Program for TrainingBeta (here), and we were discussing all the ways we wanted to improve the on...
TBP 005: Jonathan Siegrist on Sending, Failing, Training, and Dreaming Big
April 11, 2014 21:39 - 50 minutes - 46.6 MBThis interview is with one of my really good friends, Jonathan Siegrist, aka J-Star. I met Jonathan about 4 or 5 years ago and for some reason we just clicked and have stayed tight ever since. He's one of my favorite people, and you'll understand why that is if you listen to this interview :) The interview was actually done at the house we just shared with him for a few months in Las Vegas, where we spent a lot of time up at the Promised Land and some other awesome areas with Jonathan. I go...
TBP 004: Angie Payne on V14, Failures, Rivals, Diet, Weight, and Training
March 26, 2014 21:19 - 45 minutes - 42.1 MBI met Angie Payne in 2004 when she first moved to Boulder. I worked at the Spot Bouldering Gym and she lived at the Spot Bouldering Gym. Not really, but she was there an awful lot. She was quiet, shy, sweet, and studious (she studied in the café where I "worked"). And obviously strong as hell. She won three ABS National Championships and two PCA competitions during the 2003-2004 season. Over the next six years, Angie stood atop more than ten podiums as a top 3 finisher in bouldering competi...
TBP 003: Jamie Emerson on Training, Ethics, and Being The Sheriff
March 13, 2014 01:28 - 48 minutes - 44.1 MBI sat down with Jamie Emerson last summer and had a really interesting chat with him. Jamie is, I think, an important voice in the climbing community. As an accomplished and ambitious climber himself, having sent up to V14, he has his finger on the pulse of the climbing community's players and their ascents. He has a deep appreciation for not only trying hard and sending hard, but also doing it all in style. I've always thought that Jamie would be the best person for the job of MC-ing big c...
TBP 002: Paige Claassen on Training, Eating, and Body Weight
March 05, 2014 02:08 - 32 minutes - 29.4 MBI sat down and chatted with my very good friend, Paige Claassen, before she took off on her Lead Now Tour around the country this past year. We talked about being driven by success, how she's managed to pull off proud 5.14 ascents with style, and how food affects her climbing. Since our talk, she's been traveling the globe, climbing rad sport routes, sending even more 5.14s, and raising money for her favorite non-profits all along the way. If you'd like to donate to her noble cause, you can...