TBP 027 :: Kevin Jorgeson Talks about The Dawn Wall and Highballs

The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

English - July 09, 2015 22:23 - 1 hour - 65.2 MB - ★★★★★ - 305 ratings
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Previous Episode: TBP 026 :: Dr. Lisa Erikson on Preventing and Healing Injuries

Next Episode: TBP 028 :: Neely Quinn on Nutrition for Climbers

Date: July 9th, 2015

About Kevin Jorgeson

After the Dawn Wall, Kevin Jorgeson needs no introduction really. Even my grandmother knows his name (and I'm not joking about that). Before the Dawn Wall, I knew Kevin for his highball bouldering; I knew him as a bold, strong-headed climber. After his send of Ambrosia (55-ft V11 in Bishop), he wanted something different to challenge him, so he called up Tommy Caldwell and asked him if he needed a partner for the Dawn Wall.

What We Talked About

In this conversation, Kevin tells me his own Dawn Wall story, how he fought through the challenges and ultimately succeeded, how he trained for it, and what's next.

Which key pieces fell into place to let him send the Dawn Wall
The media blow-up about the Dawn Wall
How he skipped 14b & c and jumped to sending 14d
Why pitch 15 was so hard for him
How he dealt with the immense pressure up there
Specific training he did for the Dawn Wall
Why he switched from highballing to bigwalling