The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast

TBP 136 :: 5.11 Climber Hayley Thomas Gets Coached by Matt Pincus

Trainer Matt Pincus does a full 1.5 hr session with 5.11 climber, Hayley Thomas, and gives her a clear plan for how to improve her climbing.

TBP 135: Rachel Briggs on Navigating Climbing as a Mother

Rachel Briggs tells us how her climbing's improved while raising 2 young children, and how she navigates the physical & emotional challenges of motherhood.

TBP 134 :: Matt Pincus On the Priniciples of Projecting

I talk with trainer Matt Pincus about how to project routes and boulders more effectively and efficiently so you can send more quickly.

TBP 133 :: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson

I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about a simple yet effective finger strength protocol that requires no weights or pulleys.

TBP 132: 5 Common Training Mistakes Climbers Make - Alex Bridgewater and Charlie Manganiello

I talk with Charlie Manganiello and Alex Bridgewater of ClimbStrong.com about the most common mistakes they see climbers making with their training.

TBP 131: James Lucas on Improving His Bouldering by.... Bouldering More

I talk with James Lucas about how he became a much stronger boulderer just by climbing outside more and learning how to project more efficiently.

TBP 130 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Elbow Injuries

In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.

TBP 129: Josh Larson on Prepping the US Team for World Cups and the Olympics

I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.

TBP 128 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's Surprising Methodologies for Healing Tendons

I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal common tendon injuries in climbers using heavy isometric exercises and other surprising methodologies.

TBP 127: Sierra Blair Coyle on Training, Modeling, and Online Negativity

Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about training for national & world cup comps, her modeling career, and how she deals with online negativity.

TBP 126: How Kyle Lindsay Trained to Send His First 13a after A 5.12 Plateau

Kyle Lindsay tells us how he went from a 5.12 plateau to sending his first 2 5.13a's by changing up his training. We also talk about the mental barriers to climbing 5.13a and how his diet helped him become stronger.

TBP 125: Jonathan Siegrist's Prep and Process for Planta de Shiva 5.15b

I talk with Jonathan about how he prepared for la Planta de Shiva and his epically pumped send of it. He also asks me about my contrasting experience of climbing in Spain, wherein I failed to send my own project.

TBP 124: Shaina Savoy on Going from 12a to 13a in 6 Months

Our TrainingBeta Instagram Manager, Shaina Savoy, talks about how she went from 12a to 13a in 6 months and how she tames negative self-talk while climbing.

TBP 123: How John Kettle Went from V7 to V11 & 5.11d to 5.13b in 18 Months

Climbing coach and guide John Kettle talks about how he improved his technique and strength to break a decade+ plateau from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in a very short time.

TBP 122 :: The Access Fund - How Our Behavior Threatens Climbing Access and How We Can Do Better

In this interview, Zachary Lesch-Huie from the Access Fund discusses all the negative behaviors we engage in that threaten climbing access and the enjoyment of others. We talk about dogs, noise, crowds, poop, pee, erosion, kids, and how we can all do better.

TBP 121: Life Coach Remy Franklin on Prioritizing and Taking Action to Reach Goals

In this podcast interview, life coach Remy Franklin talks about how to prioritize your life goals and identify the actions you need to take to be successful.

TBP 120: How Brianna Greene Overcame Fear to Send Her First 5.12a

In this interview, Brianna Greene describes how she overcame fear and low confidence in order to send her first 5.12a last fall.

TBP 119: How Tom O'Halloran Climbs 9a While Raising A Daughter and Working Full-Time

In this interview, Australian climber Tom O'Halloran talks about how he manages to climb 9a and V14 while holding down a full-time job and raising a daughter.

TBP 118 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on the Latest Tech for Finger Training and Testing

In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about the latest device for testing finger strength and power output and how it's revolutionizing climbing training.

TBP 117: 15-Yr-Old Tanner Bauer on Training for 14b & Growth Plate Injury

In this interview, 15-year-old Tanner Bauer explains how training with his team got him to 5.14 and comp wins, and how he sustained a growth plate injury.

TBP 116 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Healing Finger Injuries

In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent finger pulley sprains and other finger injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.

TBP 115 :: Dalton Bunker on Training, Comps, and Being Vegan

In this interview, Dalton Bunker explains how he trains for outdoor climbing and comp climbing, and why becoming a vegan helped his health and his climbing.

TBP 114 :: Lattice Training - 5 Training Hacks for The Time-Poor Climber

In this interview, Lattice Training's Tom Randall and Ollie Torr describe 5 training hacks to use if you don't have much time to train.

TBP 113 :: How Dru Mack Is So Dang Good at Endurance Climbing

In this interview, Dru Mack tells us about his never-ending psych for climbing and how he trains to have such extraordinary endurance on long routes.

TBP 112 :: Mina Leslie-Wujastyk on Overcoming Fear and Setting Big Goals

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk talks about how she's training to climb 5.14d, how she overcame a fear of falling after a climbing accident, and her dialed-in diet.

TBP 111 :: Matt Pincus On Fitting Everything Into Your Training Program

I talk with climbing trainer, Matt Pincus, about how you can't fit everything into your training program, but you can prioritize what to train based on your goals.

TBP 110 :: Steve Bechtel on Training Endurance for Climbing

In this episode I talk to revered climbing trainer, Steve Bechtel, about how we can efficiently train endurance and power endurance for rock climbing.

TBP 109 :: How Electrician Leif Gasch Sent His First 5.14b at Age 38

In this interview I talk with 38-year-old full-time electrician, Leif Gasch, about how he went through 5 training cycles with some of the best trainers in the world, and finally landed on a training program that allowed him to send his first 5.14b.

TBP 108 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Using Blood Flow Restriction during Performance Phases and for Injury Healing

In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about using blood flow restriction training to help heal injuries and to maintain strength during performance phases.

TBP 107 :: Nathaniel Coleman on Staying Positive and Training to Win Comps

In this interview I talk with 3x Bouldering Nationals Champ, Nathaniel Coleman, about how he stays positive during comps and how he trains for climbing.

TBP 106 :: Tiffany Melius on Training for the Olympics and Mental Coaching for Climbers

TBP 105 :: Esther Smith - Treating Ankle and Foot Injuries for Climbers

TBP 104 :: How Meagan Martin Juggles Pro Climbing, Ninja Warrior, Modeling, and Coaching

In this interview I talk with American Ninja Warrior hero and pro climber, Meagan Martin, about how she juggles climbing and ANW with modeling and coaching.

TBP 103 :: Dr. Kate Bennett on Eating Disorders and Climbers

Dr. Kate Bennett is a PsyD psychologist in Denver who specializes in sports performance and eating disorders among athletes. You can see her vast array of qualifications and experience on her website. I asked her to be on the podcast because eating disorders and disordered eating behaviors run rampant in the climbing community, and I wanted her to chime in to give us a little perspective. 

TBP 102 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Rotator Cuff and Neck Strain

TBP 101 :: How Alex Biale Comes Back Stronger After Serious Injuries

TBP 100 :: Kyra Condie's Hangboard and Campus Board Training Program

In this interview, I talk with Kyra Condie about her current training program, including her weekly schedule, her exact hangboard and campus board routines, how she does bouldering circuits, and her thoughts on the 2018 USAC Nationals comps.

TBP 099 :: Sasha DiGiulian on Current Training, FFA's, Her Weight, and Nutrition

TBP 098 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Preparing to Try Hard and Testing Whether or Not You Should

Ask Matt :: Comparing Finger Training Protocols

TBP 097 :: How to Overcome Fear in Climbing with Author Roanne van Voorst

TBP 096 :: Sports Psychologist Chris Heilman on Imagery and Setting Realistic Goals

TBP 095 :: Zahan Billimoria on Alpine Training with Minimal Equipment

In this interview I talk with coach, climber, mountain guide, and skier, Zahan Billimoria about how he trains his athletes for mountain objectives using minimal equipment.

TBP 094 :: Esther Smith - Treating Knee and Hip Injuries in Climbers

This interview is all about hip and knee injuries. We talk about the most common hip and knee injuries among climbers, why we get them, what they feel like, how to get a proper diagnosis, and mostly… how to make the injuries go away.

TBP 093 :: Matt Pincus on Training Through Injuries and Transitioning from Bouldering to Routes

Matt Pincus is a good friend of mine and he's my right hand man at TrainingBeta. He's basically the person who keeps this website running. He manages and writes the blog, he manages our social media presence, and he's added Online Climbing Trainer to his resume. Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Jackson, Wyoming, and currently living in his van on the road. He’s climbed up to 5.14a and V12 and is constantly changing and tweaking the ways he trains as he learns new things...

TBP 092 :: Dr. Jared Vagy's 4-Step Pyramid for Healing Injuries

In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about his 4-step pyramid for healing climbing injuries like shoulder impingement, rotator cuff strain, and neck strain.

TBP 091 :: Tom Randall and Ollie Torr on How Their Training Research Can Help Us

TBP 090 :: Charlie Manganiello on Training for Multiple Sports

TBP 089 :: Paige Claassen on What It Took to Send 5.14c

TBP 088 :: How Adam Ondra Sent The World's First 9c / 5.15d