The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast
251 episodes - English - Latest episode: 10 months ago - ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsHosted by Neely Quinn, The TrainingBeta Podcast is a weekly conversation with rock climbing's best and brightest. Pro rock climbers, climbing trainers, and other insightful members of the climbing community offer their experiences with training for climbing, the best diet for climbing, and their personal stories with climbing. Whether you're a beginner climber or a seasoned pro, you'll learn something new from these conversations.
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Episodes
TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups
July 19, 2023 18:24 - 1 hour - 155 MBIn this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what she learns from watching all of the Climbing World Cups and how she uses those videos to teach her clients about their own climbing. You can passively watch any sport you want, but if you’re actually an athlete in that sport, you can turn those viewings into active learning sessions by asking yourself a few questions and being really observant. Here’s what we talked about: Why she chose this topic right now Why it’s important t...
TBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance
July 13, 2023 21:28 - 1 hour - 156 MBBack in April, I published an episode with Thomas Cunningham all about how he trains efficiently as a busy dad and ER physician to be able to send up to 5.14c projects in only 10-15 days outside climbing per year. You can listen to that episode in the link below: Listen to my first interview with Thomas In that episode, we started talking about how he uses the Whoop (a wearable bio tracking device), continuous glucose meters, and some other biohacking type stuff, but the interview woul...
TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster
May 24, 2023 18:47 - 1 hour - 133 MBIn this episode, I sat down with Coach Matt Pincus to talk about his infamous “checklist” that he uses when he’s projecting a route (or a boulder – but usually routes). As a coach, often Matt’s job is less about creating strength training programs and more about using tactics to get people up their projects in an efficient way. He’s found that he’s been having a lot of conversations with clients lately about how to approach their route projects, now that it’s climbing season in a lot of ...
TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Alex and Matt
May 10, 2023 22:23 - 1 hour - 181 MBIn the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The “energy systems” we’re talking about are power endurance, endurance, strength, and power. Basically, they both feel like these things are extremely confusing to climbers, and they wanted to simplify what those systems require, what it takes to train them well and efficiently, and what workouts they prescribe for each of them. The t...
TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing
April 26, 2023 18:18 - 1 hour - 145 MBSteep Climbing Workshop May 2nd, 2023 Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 2-hour presentation + Q&A on how to train for steep climbing on the wall and off the wall. She’ll be using a series of videos and other resources to describe some climbing drills, strength training tactics, and mindset shifts to help you feel less intimidated and more confident on steeper angles of climbing. Alex will show you all the drills, all the strength exercises, and all the mindset practice you need to unlock ...
TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3
April 19, 2023 18:55 - 1 hour - 157 MBA couple weeks ago, Sam Elias texted me and said, "Hey. This ER doctor here in Louisville just sent his first 14c... He's SUPER intelligent and really researched about training, nutrition, and personal optimization. I think y'all should have him on the podcast. He has a lot to offer." Turns out this was his second--not first--14c, which I found out in my interview with him, but everything else Sam said about Thomas was spot on, and I was psyched to reach out to him for an interview. Thom...
TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins
March 30, 2023 19:17 - 1 hour - 129 MBIn this interview I talk with professional ice and mixed climber, Majka Burhardt, about her new book, More. In it, she describes the transition she went through from being a full-time pro climber to having twins and balancing her life with her two children as a new part of it. The book is a compilation of letters she wrote to her kids through the first 6 years of their lives about the emotional rollercoaster she went on trying to balance it all. Not only is Majka a climber and a mother, sh...
TBP 227: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger
March 15, 2023 19:29 - 1 hour - 167 MBClimbing Fitness Breakthrough Series Before we get started, Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 4-part series all about how to increase your overall climbing fitness. She will do 4 weekly 90-minute zoom calls starting March 21st all about how to use efficient, quick sessions in the gym to reliably make you feel stronger and have more endurance. The cost is $147 (2-payment option available), and you’ll get all of the recordings of the zoom calls, a group Slack channel where you can ask Alex ...
TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus
March 08, 2023 20:08 - 1 hour - 176 MBThis episode is a bit different in that Coach Matt Pincus is the interviewer/coach and I (Neely) am just in it to introduce Matt and his guest, Bridget Roell. Bridget is a long-time climber who was working her first 5.13b when she first reached out to Matt a few years ago to coach her. Through the training and tactics they employed, she was able to send her first 5.13b's, her first 5.13c’s, and her first 5.14a, which was her long-term goal. In this conversation, they talk about the chang...
TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training
February 22, 2023 20:20 - 58 minutes - 107 MBIn this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about a small but very effective change to make in your finger training protocol to help you get stronger and avoid injuries. Last year, Tyler saw over 600 patients with finger injuries, and he believes that using unlevel edges that are bigger than what we’ve been told to use could have, in part, prevented those injuries while still making the climber stronger. This interview was really fascinating to me. I didn’t even know what an unlevel edge c...
TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette's Psychological Tools for Climbers
February 01, 2023 19:45 - 1 hour - 80.1 MBThis episode is one of the most meaningful episodes I’ve ever done, and I’ll tell you why in a sec. In it, I talked with psychologist Dr. Jennifer Dragonette about DBT, which stands for Dialectical Behavior Therapy, for a whopping hour and a half! DBT is a set of psychological tools developed by Marsha Linehan to help people truly process and deal with emotion dysregulation, interpersonal conflict, and the everyday issues of daily life. DBT is very important in my own life because it’s w...
TBP 223 :: How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer
January 19, 2023 00:10 - 1 hour - 153 MBIn the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients to be better boulderers. They’re both pretty psyched on bouldering themselves, so we also talk about how they train for bouldering in their own lives. When we started talking, I was assuming they were going to tell me all the ways they have boulderers get stronger in the weight room and on the fingerboard, but we really only talked about that for a little while. What ...
TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger
January 04, 2023 23:04 - 1 hour - 130 MBIn this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes amde by climbers who are trying to break into 5.12 climbing. Sending 5.12 is the most common goal among her clients, so she has quite a bit of experience with the minutiae of what it takes to do that. She will share her personal experience of her first 5.12’s and what she learned from her trials and tribulations. She’ll then go into the mindset shifts that are required to jump into the coveted 5.12 territory, a...
TBP 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days
December 14, 2022 19:51 - 1 hour - 142 MBIn this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss the extremely important topic of crag etiquette. As more climbers join the sport and crags and boulder fields become more crowded, there’s a growing need for us all to be on the same page about who gets to climb when, how to communicate with each other, and what our expectations are of each other in general. This conversation’s purpose is to bring some difficult topics into the light and hopefully to help climbers understand each other bet...
TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger
December 08, 2022 22:00 - 1 hour - 145 MBIn this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the trip feeling like she had low endurance, in fact, but she used specific tactics to send the route in 7 sessions. There are a lot of little tips and tricks in this episode, and so many observations that Alex has made over the years about endurance climbing, including: Maintaining Composure B...
TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing
November 16, 2022 19:13 - 1 hour - 145 MBDavid Farkas is a 49-year-old climber who works as the Adult Programming Manager at The Front Climbing Club in Salt Lake City, UT. He’s been climbing since 1991, and found himself in a bit of a slump with his climbing and nutrition when he signed up to work with me in 2018. After working together on his nutrition and him working on his climbing training with various trainers and coaches, he went from climbing 5.10 to 5.12 in about a year, lost some weight he’d been trying to lose, and fo...
TBP 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers
November 02, 2022 20:25 - 29 minutes - 54.7 MBIn this episode, I talk about the pros and cons of the ketogenic diet and intermittent fasting for climbers. In my sessions with clients I often get questions about these very popular diet tactics, so I wanted to lay out in plain terms what I see happen–both good and bad–when climbers try them. This recording is taken from my Nourish program, which is a self-paced online course I created for climbers to help them change their diet so they can improve their climbing, energy levels, sugar ...
TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance
October 26, 2022 20:55 - 1 hour - 139 MBKevin Roet is a climbing instructor from the UK who’s been teaching workshops on climbing psychology for about 7 years now. He recently wrote a book, Climbing Psychology: Mind Training for Optimal Climbing, all about the topic, and I wanted to have him on the show to talk about the things he most commonly helps people with in regards to climbing psychology. This was a really enjoyable conversation for me, not only because Kevin is a humble Brit who’s well-versed in this topic, but also b...
TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing
October 19, 2022 20:16 - 1 hour - 152 MBYou may have heard me say that I’ve been doing some mental training coaching with Hazel Findlay this year to help with some fears and mental “blocks.” Well, it’s been so valuable working with her that I wanted to have her on the show to talk about some of the same things we’ve talked about in our sessions together. Hazel is a 33-year-old professional climber and mental training coach. She made a name for herself at a young age for her bold trad ascents, having been the first British fema...
TBP 215: How We’ve Grown as Coaches Over the Years (Matt, Alex, Neely)
October 13, 2022 18:01 - 1 hour - 162 MBIn the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how our coaching styles, confidence levels, and tactics with clients have changed over the years. Matt and Alex talk about their practices as climbing coaches and I discuss my practice as a nutrition professional. Some things we all have in common are that we’re less perfectionistic and rigid in our coaching now than when we first started, and that we focus on different facets of climbing or nutrition now than...
TBP 214: Matt Pincus’s 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers
September 29, 2022 20:05 - 1 hour - 112 MBIn this episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the most common advice he gives to his climbing coaching clients. He finds that he has really similar converations with many of his clients, so over the years he’s come up with 4 sayings that he elaborates on during client calls. We’re not going to get into the nitty gritty of sets and reps or specific ways to train in this episode, but you will likely find some nuggets that will help you Occam’s razor your climbing and training days. Show...
What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance
September 15, 2022 22:06 - 28 minutes - 52.4 MBIn this episode, I talk all about what to eat at the crag and the couple days before going to the crag so that you can have all-day energy and climb hard. I know it’s tempting to just not eat all day at the crag so you can feel “light” and climb hard, but the truth is that we need food at regular intervals every day, especially when we’re trying to perform athletically at a high level. So I’ll tell you what foods to pack in with you, what kinds of nutrients to focus on, and how to stru...
TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training
August 31, 2022 18:33 - 55 minutes - 44.4 MBIn this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about his new insights about the longstanding use of the fingerboard to train finger strength in climbing. Once again, Tyler pored over the research and wants us all to know that there are limitations to how fingerboard training translates to actual rock climbing. He talks about the physiology of hangboarding and two potentially better ways to train finger strength. Tyler also wrote an article about this topic, which you can find here. Ab...
TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing
August 24, 2022 17:36 - 1 hour - 142 MBIn the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the different kinds of “endurance” in climbing, and how to train each of them. We go over the anaerobic lactic system (power endurance), the aerobic system (long-form endurance), and the anaerobic alactic system (power) and the differences between them. Then Matt goes through some different training methods for each and how to incorporate those into your training program. I also selfishly ask Matt about what I’m doing to train endurance to ge...
TBP 210 :: Crag Dog Training with Jenna Teti
August 03, 2022 17:11 - 1 hour - 169 MBThis episode is a LITTLE bit different than all my others in that we’re going to be talking about training, but for a different species: dogs! So many climbers have dogs, and because climbing has gotten so popular in the past couple decades, there are more and more dogs at crags and boulders. Sometimes this is an amazing thing and sometimes dogs can be a little out of control. So I asked my dog trainer, Jenna Teti, to come on the show to shed a little light on some things we can do to ge...
TBP 209: Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition
July 29, 2022 19:14 - 43 minutes - 79.1 MBNew Nutrition and Training Program: Reach Coach Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn are hosting an integrated climbing training and nutrition program starting on August 8th, 2022 for 4 weeks! If you want to up your game in nutrition and in climbing training (and learn more about what Alex talks about in this article), you can check it out in the link below. In the program, you’ll get a 4-week training program from Alex, a comprehensive nutrition course + one-on-one time with Neely, plus weekly...
TBP 208 :: Alex and Neely's Biggest Nutrition and Training Mistakes
July 19, 2022 20:53 - 1 hour - 127 MBFree Masterclass on the 5 Most Common Mistakes in Training and Climbing Next Tuesday we’re doing a free, live masterclass on zoom to talk about the 5 most common training and nutrition mistakes climbers make and how to avoid them. When: Tuesday, July 26th at 6-7:30pm Mountain Time Where: Zoom call Hosts: Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn What: 60-minute presentation and 30 minutes of Q&A from live audience: How to avoid common training mistakes How to avoid common nutrition mistakes...
TBP 207 :: Allison Vest on Transitioning from Comp Climbing to Rock Climbing
July 13, 2022 22:12 - 1 hour - 68.3 MBAllison Vest is a 27-year-old climber who lives in Salt Lake City. She’s originally from Minnesota and moved to Canada when she was 7, where she fell in love with climbing. She had a lot of success competing as a Canadian, winning the Canadian Bouldering Nationals in 2018 and 2020 and winning Canadian Lead Nationals in 2019. In August 2019, Allison became the first female Canadian climber to send V13 when she did The Terminator in Squamish, which you can watch a video about here. She’s s...
TBP 206 :: How Matt, Alex, and I Are Approaching Our Mega Projects
July 06, 2022 17:22 - 1 hour - 147 MBWork with Matt or Alex as Your Climbing Coach Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger are both experienced climbing coaches who will work with you from anywhere in the world to help you create and reach your climbing goals. They can either consult with you on making your own program or they will create a detailed program for you based on your lifestyle and equipment availability. WORK WITH MATT OR ALEX How Alex, Matt, and I Are Approaching Our Mega Projects In the episode, I sit down with ...
TBP 205 :: Going from 5.11 projects to 5.11 Warm-ups with Erin Ettenger
June 22, 2022 17:04 - 49 minutes - 90 MBErin Ettenger is a 25-year-old software engineer who lives in Seattle, Washington. I asked Erin to be on the show because she uses our Route Climbing Training Program and has had some amazing success on it, so I wanted her to share her story with you all. Through using the program (and adapting it intelligently to her own needs), she gained work capacity, meaning she can now climb more routes in a session, and she improved her overall strength levels. She went from mega-projecting 5.11...
TBP 204: Mistakes Made in Matt Pincus's Own Training Plan
June 01, 2022 18:03 - 1 hour - 120 MBIn the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about how he trained all winter/spring for his 5.14b project in Wyoming this summer and some mistakes he made along the way. While Matt is a seasoned coach and climber, he was under some various constraints that made training challenging this year. One of those constraints was that Matt was working at a restaurant and coaching for a total of about 70 hours per week, so his plan needed to be efficient. The other is that he only had a board to cli...
TBP 203 :: Under-the-Radar V14 Boulderer Katie Lamb
May 25, 2022 18:11 - 1 hour - 145 MBKatie Lamb is a 24-year-old boulderer out of the Bay area who has proven her abilities over and over with consistent sends of V14 boulders. Included in her resumé are The Swarm (V13/14) in Bishop, New Base Line (V14) in Magic Wood in Switzerland, Jade (V14) in Rocky Mountain National Park, Direct North (V14) in Bishop, and so many more. She’s a Stanford graduate and works half time as a data scientist focused on clean energy, but her main priority is climbing. She’s surprisingly not spon...
TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Youth Finger Injuries
April 27, 2022 21:46 - 58 minutes - 108 MBIn this episode, Tyler explains the most common youth finger injuries, what ages are at highest risk, how to mitigate them, and what to do if a youth climber has a finger injury. Once again, Tyler pored over the research and is sharing this information with us so that youth coaches and parents are better equipped to understand these injuries and avoid permanent damage to their kids. Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you: Tyler ...
TBP 201 :: Dr. Jared Vagy on Finger Injuries and Protocols
April 13, 2022 19:07 - 1 hour - 179 MBDr. Jared Vagy is a physical therapist and he’s a climber who’s incredibly motivated to help other climbers heal their bodies. In this interview, we talk about new research about common finger injuries in climbers and how that’s affected his protocols for healing them. We did another interview about fingers a long time ago in Episode 116, but this is an update to that information and a deeper dive into it. Jared’s book Climb Injury-Free is on its seventh print run and is back in stock (fin...
TBP 200 :: Coach Alex Stiger's Training Plan to Climb Her First 5.14a
April 06, 2022 19:03 - 1 hour - 151 MB6-Week Team Training Program Starts April 18th On April 18th, Coach Alex Stiger’s 4th cohort of her Team program will begin! This is a group training program that ALSO provides you with a training program built just for you. You’ll be getting to know a small group of no more than 12 people, talking with them every week. You’ll get a lot of one-on-one time with Alex, and you’ll also get everything below… More one-on-one time – 2.5 hours instead of 1.75 hours over the 6 weeks (that’s mo...
TBP 199: Alternatives for When You're Too Tired for Your Session - Pincus
March 30, 2022 18:17 - 58 minutes - 106 MBIn the episode, Coach Matt Pincus discusses the common issue of not having the energy to execute a programmed session. I’m sure you’ve been at the gym with the intention of projecting routes or doing some limit bouldering, only to find that you can hardly get off the ground on your warm-ups. Whether you have a training program written by another coach or by yourself, Matt goes over some alternative plans for limit bouldering sessions, strength sessions (outside of climbing), and volume/end...
TBP 197: Sending 50 5.13’s by the Age of 50 - Lillian Chao-Quinlan
March 16, 2022 20:51 - 1 hour - 158 MBTBP 197 :: Lillian Chao-Quinlan, President of Sportrock, on Sending 50 5.13’s by the Age of 50 Lillian Chao-Quinlan is a climber in her early 50’s who is also the president of Sportrock Climbing Centers in Virginia. She began climbing when she was 30 years old and soon realized it was what she wanted to spend her life doing and teaching, so she quickly moved up the ranks at her gym, landing in the role of president. In the past 17 years, she’s worked tirelessly to make Sportrock an inclusi...
Sending 50 5.13’s by the Age of 50 - Lillian Chao-Quinlan
March 16, 2022 20:51 - 1 hour - 158 MBTBP 197 :: Lillian Chao-Quinlan, President of Sportrock, on Sending 50 5.13’s by the Age of 50 Lillian Chao-Quinlan is a climber in her early 50’s who is also the president of Sportrock Climbing Centers in Virginia. She began climbing when she was 30 years old and soon realized it was what she wanted to spend her life doing and teaching, so she quickly moved up the ranks at her gym, landing in the role of president. In the past 17 years, she’s worked tirelessly to make Sportrock an inclusiv...
TBP 196 :: Keenan Takahashi's Pursuit of Progression and Perfection
March 10, 2022 20:39 - 1 hour - 165 MBKeenan Takahashi is a 30-year-old professional climber who has sent boulders up to V15. Originally from Davis, California, he started out as a skater and transitioned to climbing at about 17 years old. I wanted to talk with Keenan because–let’s be honest–I love his moustachio… and because I wanted to understand what sets him apart from other climbers. He’s climbed all over the world, he’s in countless videos (just google his name), and he clearly tries VERY HARD to excel at this sport. H...
TBP 195 :: How to Assess and Improve Your Climbing Skills with Coach Alex Stiger
March 02, 2022 20:42 - 1 hour - 161 MBHow to Assess and Improve Your Skill Set in Climbing In the episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about how she assesses her clients’ and her own skill level and then how she helps her clients (and herself) improve upon it with drills and objective learning. This is a big one, and I walked away from this conversation sort of blown away by how much I’ve been missing in my climbing training all these years. There’s SO MUCH more I could’ve been doing this whole time to make improvements w...
TBP 194 :: Goal Setting in Climbing with Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger
February 23, 2022 22:59 - 1 hour - 149 MBMatt Pincus and Alex Stiger are both experienced climbing coaches who will work with you from anywhere in the world to help you create and reach your climbing goals. They can either consult with you on making your own program or they will create a detailed program for you based on your lifestyle and equipment availability. WORK WITH MATT OR ALEX Goal Setting in Climbing In the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how we approach goal setting for...
TBP 193 :: How Bobbi Bensman Is Still Climbing 5.13 at 58
February 16, 2022 21:16 - 57 minutes - 106 MBWhere to start about Bobbi Bensman?? Bobbi has been climbing since 1980 and was basically the Alex Puccio of her time. She was a professional climber for 21 years until she transitioned to a full-time job as a sales rep for outdoor companies and became a mother to two daughters. In her time as a pro climber, she helped forge the way for strong female climbing by doing one of the first 5.14a female ascents, which was quickly downgraded after her send. We talk about how controversial that ...
TBP 192 :: How My 68-Yr-Old Mother-In-Law Still Climbs 5.12
February 09, 2022 20:23 - 1 hour - 119 MBElyn Lytton is a 68-year-old climber from Colorado who started climbing in her early 50’s and is still regularly crushing 5.12’s (indoors and on toprope). She is also my mother-in-law and I’m constantly impressed by her. She’s a really good example of a person who does things in the name of sustainability, meaning, she LOVES climbing and will do whatever it takes to be able to do it for many more years. In this conversation, we discuss her approach to climbing and what she does to make it w...
TBP 191 :: Matt Pincus on Navigating Training Options if You're in a Plateau
January 26, 2022 22:52 - 1 hour - 117 MBTBP 191 :: Matt Pincus on How to Navigate Training Options if You’re in a Plateau 25% Off Bouldering Program Our Bouldering Training Program is on sale for 25% off the normal price (regularly $27/month and now $20/month) with coupon code “bouldering.” The program consists of 3 levels, depending on your training experience, and it will help you get stronger, more powerful, and have more all-day capacity. If you sign up for the program by February 2nd, you’ll be automatically entere...
TBP 190 :: Meal Timing for Climbing Performance and Recovery
January 19, 2022 21:14 - 28 minutes - 52.7 MBIn this episode, I talk all about how to time your meals and snacks to help your climbing performance, energy levels every day, overall mental well-being, and body composition. You might think that when you eat food isn’t really that important – or maybe you haven’t given it much thought. But the truth is that it can be almost as important as what you eat when it comes to performance, recovery, and overall well-being. I’ll go over some sample meal/snack time schedules and tell you about...
TBP 189 :: Lucie Hanes- Running and Climbing and Eating Disorder Recovery
January 12, 2022 21:37 - 1 hour - 146 MBTBP 189 :: Lucie Hanes- Running and Climbing and Eating Disorder Recovery Lucie Hanes is a 27-year-old climbing coach out of Eagle, Colorado, who is pursuing her Master’s of Science in Applied Sports Psychology. I met Lucie in the Wicked Cave in Rifle last summer, and the next time I heard from her was when she reached out via email in response to the episode I did with Matt Pincus about running and climbing. In that episode, Matt and I basically conclude that running isn’t going to ...
TBP 188 :: Rest - How Much Is Too Much and Navigating the Holidays
December 15, 2021 22:07 - 51 minutes - 94.9 MBAbout Matt Pincus Matt is a boulderer and a sport climber based out of Wyoming. He splits his time between training at home in Jackson and traveling to pursue his climbing goals around the world. Matt is also a coach at TrainingBeta and he’s been seeing clients from around the world since 2017. He’s currently taking new clients, so if you’d like to work with him, you can sign up here. Matt just started offering 1-hour remote coaching sessions so you can get your training questions answ...
TBP 187 :: Matt Samet on Training and Climbing Hard at 50 and Route Development
December 09, 2021 20:13 - 1 hour - 122 MBMatt Samet is the editor of Climbing Magazine, the author of several books, a prolific route developer, and a very strong and dedicated climber. He’s also a friend of mine and someone I respect a lot, so I’ve been wanting to interview him for a while. He’s a father of 3, works full-time, and just sent a 5.14 project a couple days before his 50th birthday, which is the same max grade he was sending 20 years ago. It’s always inspiring to me to see people just make it work in climbing, ev...
TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson's New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol
December 01, 2021 19:24 - 1 hour - 116 MBDr. Tyler Nelson’s New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol In the episode, Tyler explains how we should be warming up our youth teams (and ourselves) in order to make climbing sessions more effective, and more importantly, for injury prevention. Once again, Tyler pored over the research and came up with a very progressive way of doing things – much differently than what we’re used to. Gone are the days of just warming up for climbing by doing some easy climbing: there’s actually a b...
TBP 185 :: Running for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes
November 12, 2021 20:24 - 1 hour - 122 MBRunning for Climbing Fitness: Does It Work? And How to Avoid Common Mistakes In the episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I talk about running for climbing fitness. In our practices as a coach (Matt) and a nutritionist (me), we see a lot of people who run in the name of climbing training. But there are some common mistakes we see people making in their training schedules, their nutrition practices, and their reasoning behind their actions. We talk about some better choices people can be makin...