Latest Climbingtrainerinterviews Podcast Episodes
TBP 235 :: How to Get Better at Climbing by Watching World Cups
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - July 19, 2023 18:24 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsIn this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about what she learns from watching all of the Climbing World Cups and how she uses those videos to teach her clients about their own climbing. You can passively watch any sport you want, but if you’re actually an athlete in that sport, you can tu...
TBP 234: Thomas Cunningham on Biohacking for Climbing Performance
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - July 13, 2023 21:28 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsBack in April, I published an episode with Thomas Cunningham all about how he trains efficiently as a busy dad and ER physician to be able to send up to 5.14c projects in only 10-15 days outside climbing per year. You can listen to that episode in the link below: Listen to my first interview w...
TBP 232: A Roadmap and a Checklist for Sending Route Projects Faster
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - May 24, 2023 18:47 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsIn this episode, I sat down with Coach Matt Pincus to talk about his infamous “checklist” that he uses when he’s projecting a route (or a boulder – but usually routes). As a coach, often Matt’s job is less about creating strength training programs and more about using tactics to get people up ...
TBP 231: Common Sense Energy Systems Training with Alex and Matt
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - May 10, 2023 22:23 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsIn the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients in the different energy systems. The “energy systems” we’re talking about are power endurance, endurance, strength, and power. Basically, they both feel like these things a...
TBP 230 :: Alex Stiger on How to Approach the Different Angles of Climbing
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - April 26, 2023 18:18 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsSteep Climbing Workshop May 2nd, 2023 Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 2-hour presentation + Q&A on how to train for steep climbing on the wall and off the wall. She’ll be using a series of videos and other resources to describe some climbing drills, strength training tactics, and mindset shif...
TBP 229: Thomas Cunningham Climbs 14c as an ER Doc and Father of 3
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - April 19, 2023 18:55 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsA couple weeks ago, Sam Elias texted me and said, "Hey. This ER doctor here in Louisville just sent his first 14c... He's SUPER intelligent and really researched about training, nutrition, and personal optimization. I think y'all should have him on the podcast. He has a lot to offer." Turns ou...
TBP 228 :: Majka Burhardt on Being a Pro Climber while Raising Twins
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - March 30, 2023 19:17 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsIn this interview I talk with professional ice and mixed climber, Majka Burhardt, about her new book, More. In it, she describes the transition she went through from being a full-time pro climber to having twins and balancing her life with her two children as a new part of it. The book is a co...
TBP 227: How to Stay Motivated (Almost) All the Time with Alex Stiger
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - March 15, 2023 19:29 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsClimbing Fitness Breakthrough Series Before we get started, Coach Alex Stiger is hosting a 4-part series all about how to increase your overall climbing fitness. She will do 4 weekly 90-minute zoom calls starting March 21st all about how to use efficient, quick sessions in the gym to reliabl...
TBP 226: How Bridget Roell Went from 13a to 14a with Coach Matt Pincus
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - March 08, 2023 20:08 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsThis episode is a bit different in that Coach Matt Pincus is the interviewer/coach and I (Neely) am just in it to introduce Matt and his guest, Bridget Roell. Bridget is a long-time climber who was working her first 5.13b when she first reached out to Matt a few years ago to coach her. Throu...
TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - February 22, 2023 20:20 - 58 minutes ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsIn this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about a small but very effective change to make in your finger training protocol to help you get stronger and avoid injuries. Last year, Tyler saw over 600 patients with finger injuries, and he believes that using unlevel edges that are bigger than wha...
TBP 224 :: Dr. Jen Dragonette's Psychological Tools for Climbers
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - February 01, 2023 19:45 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsThis episode is one of the most meaningful episodes I’ve ever done, and I’ll tell you why in a sec. In it, I talked with psychologist Dr. Jennifer Dragonette about DBT, which stands for Dialectical Behavior Therapy, for a whopping hour and a half! DBT is a set of psychological tools develope...
TBP 223 :: How to Be a Stronger, Better Boulderer
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - January 19, 2023 00:10 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsIn the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how they go about training their clients to be better boulderers. They’re both pretty psyched on bouldering themselves, so we also talk about how they train for bouldering in their own lives. When we started talki...
TBP 222 :: Breaking into 5.12 Climbing with Coach Alex Stiger
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - January 04, 2023 23:04 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsIn this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the most common mistakes amde by climbers who are trying to break into 5.12 climbing. Sending 5.12 is the most common goal among her clients, so she has quite a bit of experience with the minutiae of what it takes to do that. She will shar...
TBP 221: Good Crag Etiquette for Great Climbing Days
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - December 14, 2022 19:51 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsIn this episode, Coach Matt Pincus and I discuss the extremely important topic of crag etiquette. As more climbers join the sport and crags and boulder fields become more crowded, there’s a growing need for us all to be on the same page about who gets to climb when, how to communicate with eac...
TBP 220 :: Tactics for Sending Long Pumpy Routes with Coach Alex Stiger
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - December 08, 2022 22:00 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsIn this episode, I talk with Coach Alex Stiger about the tactics she used to send Silky Smooth, 5.13c (8a+) in the Red River Gorge last week without training endurance beforehand. She went into the trip feeling like she had low endurance, in fact, but she used specific tactics to send the rout...
TBP 219 :: How David Farkas Changed His Nutrition to Improve His Climbing
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - November 16, 2022 19:13 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsDavid Farkas is a 49-year-old climber who works as the Adult Programming Manager at The Front Climbing Club in Salt Lake City, UT. He’s been climbing since 1991, and found himself in a bit of a slump with his climbing and nutrition when he signed up to work with me in 2018. After working tog...
TBP 218: Intermittent Fasting and The Keto Diet for Climbers
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - November 02, 2022 20:25 - 29 minutes ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsIn this episode, I talk about the pros and cons of the ketogenic diet and intermittent fasting for climbers. In my sessions with clients I often get questions about these very popular diet tactics, so I wanted to lay out in plain terms what I see happen–both good and bad–when climbers try them...
TBP 217 :: Kevin Roet on Climbing Psychology for Optimal Performance
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - October 26, 2022 20:55 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsKevin Roet is a climbing instructor from the UK who’s been teaching workshops on climbing psychology for about 7 years now. He recently wrote a book, Climbing Psychology: Mind Training for Optimal Climbing, all about the topic, and I wanted to have him on the show to talk about the things he m...
TBP 216 :: Hazel Findlay on Overcoming the Most Common Fears in Climbing
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - October 19, 2022 20:16 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsYou may have heard me say that I’ve been doing some mental training coaching with Hazel Findlay this year to help with some fears and mental “blocks.” Well, it’s been so valuable working with her that I wanted to have her on the show to talk about some of the same things we’ve talked about in ...
TBP 215: How We’ve Grown as Coaches Over the Years (Matt, Alex, Neely)
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - October 13, 2022 18:01 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsIn the episode, I sit down with Coaches Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger to discuss how our coaching styles, confidence levels, and tactics with clients have changed over the years. Matt and Alex talk about their practices as climbing coaches and I discuss my practice as a nutrition professional. ...
TBP 214: Matt Pincus’s 4 Most Common Pieces of Advice to Climbers
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - September 29, 2022 20:05 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsIn this episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the most common advice he gives to his climbing coaching clients. He finds that he has really similar converations with many of his clients, so over the years he’s come up with 4 sayings that he elaborates on during client calls. We’re not goin...
What to Eat at the Crag for Optimal Climbing Performance
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - September 15, 2022 22:06 - 28 minutes ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsIn this episode, I talk all about what to eat at the crag and the couple days before going to the crag so that you can have all-day energy and climb hard. I know it’s tempting to just not eat all day at the crag so you can feel “light” and climb hard, but the truth is that we need food at re...
TBP 212 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - August 31, 2022 18:33 - 55 minutes ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsIn this episode, Dr. Tyler Nelson talks about his new insights about the longstanding use of the fingerboard to train finger strength in climbing. Once again, Tyler pored over the research and wants us all to know that there are limitations to how fingerboard training translates to actual ...
TBP 211: Matt Pincus Talks Endurance Training for Climbing
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - August 24, 2022 17:36 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsIn the episode, Coach Matt Pincus talks about the different kinds of “endurance” in climbing, and how to train each of them. We go over the anaerobic lactic system (power endurance), the aerobic system (long-form endurance), and the anaerobic alactic system (power) and the differences between ...
TBP 210 :: Crag Dog Training with Jenna Teti
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - August 03, 2022 17:11 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsThis episode is a LITTLE bit different than all my others in that we’re going to be talking about training, but for a different species: dogs! So many climbers have dogs, and because climbing has gotten so popular in the past couple decades, there are more and more dogs at crags and boulders. ...
TBP 209: Calories for Climbing Performance and Body Composition
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - July 29, 2022 19:14 - 43 minutes ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsNew Nutrition and Training Program: Reach Coach Alex Stiger and Neely Quinn are hosting an integrated climbing training and nutrition program starting on August 8th, 2022 for 4 weeks! If you want to up your game in nutrition and in climbing training (and learn more about what Alex talks abou...
TBP 208 :: Alex and Neely's Biggest Nutrition and Training Mistakes
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - July 19, 2022 20:53 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsFree Masterclass on the 5 Most Common Mistakes in Training and Climbing Next Tuesday we’re doing a free, live masterclass on zoom to talk about the 5 most common training and nutrition mistakes climbers make and how to avoid them. When: Tuesday, July 26th at 6-7:30pm Mountain Time Where:...
TBP 207 :: Allison Vest on Transitioning from Comp Climbing to Rock Climbing
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - July 13, 2022 22:12 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsAllison Vest is a 27-year-old climber who lives in Salt Lake City. She’s originally from Minnesota and moved to Canada when she was 7, where she fell in love with climbing. She had a lot of success competing as a Canadian, winning the Canadian Bouldering Nationals in 2018 and 2020 and winning ...
TBP 206 :: How Matt, Alex, and I Are Approaching Our Mega Projects
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - July 06, 2022 17:22 - 1 hour ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsWork with Matt or Alex as Your Climbing Coach Matt Pincus and Alex Stiger are both experienced climbing coaches who will work with you from anywhere in the world to help you create and reach your climbing goals. They can either consult with you on making your own program or they will create ...
TBP 205 :: Going from 5.11 projects to 5.11 Warm-ups with Erin Ettenger
The TrainingBeta Podcast: A Climbing Training Podcast - June 22, 2022 17:04 - 49 minutes ★★★★★ - 305 ratingsErin Ettenger is a 25-year-old software engineer who lives in Seattle, Washington. I asked Erin to be on the show because she uses our Route Climbing Training Program and has had some amazing success on it, so I wanted her to share her story with you all. Through using the program (and adapti...
Related Climbingtrainerinterviews Topics