Training Rabbits for Show - Morning - Chickweed

Show Rabbit Training.

Hello Listener!

Thank you for listening.  If you would like to support the podcast, and keep the lights on, you can support us whenever you use Amazon through the link below:

It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what.

Or you can become a Fluffle Supporter by donating through Patreon.com at the link below:

Patreon/Hare of the Rabbit

What's this Patreon?
Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators. Patreon was created by a musician who needed a easy way for fans to support his band.

What do you need?
Please support Hare of the Rabbit Podcast financially by becoming a Patron. Patrons agree to a regular contribution, starting at $1 per episode. Patreon.com takes a token amount as a small processing fee, but most of your money will go directly towards supporting the Hare of the Rabbit Podcast. You can change or stop your payments at any time.

Thank you for your support,

Jeff Hittinger.

Can bunnies be trained? Can they learn? Can they be taught?
Yes, yes and yes!... They can. In fact they are quite clever little things and are quick to learn. They enjoy the interaction and stimulation too.
First we are going to look at the psychology behind training a rabbit.
Why is a Rabbit Not Like a Dog?
Let's compare a rabbit to a dog, that quintessential model of (potential) obedience. The ancestral dog was a cooperative pack animal. He was utterly submissive to his alpha dog: the chief of the pack. Humans took that characteristic and bred domestic dogs to have a very strong desire to please their *new* alpha, the Human Master. Most dogs have a puppy-like desire to please their perceived alpha, and this is what makes them so easy to train (at least in the hands of an experienced dog trainer who understands the way a dog's mind works).
Now consider the rabbit. The wild rabbits from which our domestic friends are descended are indeed social creatures--but they are herbivores who have not had the evolutionary pressure to be highly cooperative. The family group lives in a series of excavated tunnels (the warren) in the earth. There is a social hierarchy, but it is generally based on which rabbit is the strongest and toughest. Rabbits cooperate only in the sense their evolutionary programmed alarm systems benefit the entire warren. Rabbits can certainly be extremely affectionate with one another, but they also have distinct likes and dislikes of other rabbits. It's often impossible for a human to guess which rabbits will fall in love, and which ones will hate each other from the start and never learn to get along. Surprisingly, it's often easier for a rabbit to get along with a human, cat, dog, guinea pig or other animal than with an unfamiliar member of his/her own species.
Unlike dogs, rabbits have no innate desire to please an alpha. If the human caregiver becomes so frustrated with the apparent disobedience of the rabbit that s/he becomes physically abusive, the rabbit will begin to consider the human as an enemy, and never forget the physical punishment. Hitting a rabbit is not only dangerous to the animal (the skeleton is extremely fragile), but unproductive. The rabbit subjected to physical punishment may become extremely aggressive, hopelessly fearful or--believe it or not--vindictive. With love and patience, the human caregiver can teach the bunny what is acceptable and what is not. The only effective way to train a rabbit away from undesirable behaviors is with positive reinforcement and very gentle negative reinforcement, such as a squirt with a water bottle and a firm "No!" when the bunny is being naughty.
Rabbits are very clever and actually enjoy learning new things.
Learning through play is the best way to teach your bunny, and if you add some of their favorite treats as a reward, it makes the whole process much easier and rabbits will look forward to 'rabbit training time'!
People Pleasers
As more people are realizing that rabbits are social creatures and love the company of their owners, lucky bunnies everywhere are being brought inside the family home, to live, sleep, play and socialize. In turn, they are learning new habits, routines and games.
Rabbits are enjoying the freedoms other pets, like cats and dogs, have long since been a part of, rather than suffering the confinement of an outside, dingy, damp, lonely hutch at the bottom of the garden. And about time too!
Rabbit training can be for practical reasons of course, but certain types of training can be helpful and rewarding in other ways too. Let's take a more in-depth look at rabbit training and it's uses:
⦁ Litter Box Training - Learn the basic steps to successful rabbit toilet training, important for indoor rabbits but also can benefit outdoor bunnies too.
⦁ Clicker Training - Rabbits are very reward-based when it comes to doing as they are told. Sound association is an excellent way to get them to remember!
⦁ Harness Training - There's lots of reasons why harness rabbit training is a good idea and your bunnies will take to it, or they won't, but there are ways to help them get used to .
⦁ Agility Training - Agility courses for rabbits are becoming more popular worldwide. Rabbits and owners enjoy the exercise but there are a few things to follow before you get your rabbits running through tunnels!
⦁ Show Jumping Rabbit Training - Much like agility training but more competitive, especially in Scandinavia where it all started. But seeing a rabbit jump over hurdles like a little horse is amazing & rabbits love it too!
⦁ Show Rabbit Training - If you are breeding beautiful, pictures of perfection or even rare rabbits, you'll want to show them off, but the correct behavior on the show table is important to their success and adds to the overall winning formula.
On this episode we are going to specifically cover Rabbit Show Training for the show rabbit
For more than 150 years, people have been exhibiting rabbits at shows. The showing of different breeds and varieties of rabbits at exhibitions and competitions has been around since the late 1800s and more people enjoy the fellowship of these events every day.
Associations & Councils
The BRC (British Rabbit Council) in the UK and the ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association) are two of the largest and most influential of the organizations. They have quite a strict standard of entry and list of regulations, but with the right rabbit training techniques and know-how, you too could have a prize-wining rabbit on your hands.
Range
All recognized breeds and varieties of rabbits can be shown and shows range from small club shows and county fairs to huge state and national events. This variety provides a wide range of competition for rabbit raisers, breeders and owners.
Each show will have slightly different rules but the basics principals of showing rabbits are more or less the same worldwide.
Lets take a look at a few things you and your rabbit will need to learn:
Posing Your Rabbit
Posing the rabbit on the table for the showmanship contest can be done in several ways (for example, sideways, facing the contestant, or facing the judge). However, the usual posing position is to have the rabbit face the judge.
Posing the rabbit is done in such a way that the animal is neither stretched out too much nor tucked in too much depending on breed description. By properly posing your animal, you can give a good impression of the "type" of the breed.
Some rabbit breeds are posed in a specific way, while some are not judged in a posed position. It is important that you know the proper pose for your rabbit and set the rabbit in this pose during the judge's evaluation. Practicing posing with your rabbits will help keep the animals calm while the judge is handling them. A rabbit that has not been handled will be scared or aggressive and will make it difficult for the judge to evaluate it. This could hinder your placing because it will not allow the judge to see your rabbits best qualities. The Domestic Rabbit book has a tutorial that states the pose and handling of various rabbit breeds.

Practice Posing
Practice makes perfect! You should practice posing your rabbits properly and going through the routine that the judges will use to check your rabbits for disqualifications and placings. This is also great practice if you will compete in rabbit showmanship. If you plan to compete in rabbit showmanship, you should say aloud each step as you practice checking and posing your rabbit. This will help you build your confidence since you will need to do so during showmanship in order to demonstrate to the judge that you know your rabbit stuff!
When practicing posing your rabbit, make sure you have a table and a rug or a piece of carpet upon which to set the animal.
Never try to set up the animal on a smooth surface since it may slip and will not get a good grip, and this action would affect the pose negatively.
Steps to Good Posing
Follow these rabbit training steps if you want to pose your rabbit effectively and correctly
⦁ Cover the rabbit's eyes with the palm of your hand so that it will sit calmly rather than struggle.
⦁ With your other hand, set the forelegs in alignment with the eyes and the hind legs in alignment with the hips.
⦁ Gently stroke the rabbit on the back when the positioning is finished so that the animal will sit calmly in the posing position.
⦁ Keep your movements to a minimum; the less you have to do to secure the proper response from your animal, the better your performance will be judged.
⦁ It is important to pose the rabbit to the front facing the judge, because several people will be working side-by-side behind the table and the rabbits will be positioned close together.
⦁ If they are posed sideways, a rabbit (especially a buck) may be tempted to mount an adjacent rabbit. Posing straight ahead should diminish this problem and that the rabbits are posed at least two feet apart.
⦁ When the judge gives the command "pose," you will have two to three minutes to place the animal in the proper pose.
⦁ You should then take a step back and stand at attention.
Examining Your Rabbit
rabbit show handling
In the showmanship part of the rabbit contest, the judge attempts to determine each participant's practical knowledge by checking the rabbit for defects and disqualifications.
You will need to demonstrate your practical skill at examination, and the judge will evaluate you on how smoothly, systematically, and confidently you perform each of the examination sections.
The examination can be broken down into the following steps:
⦁ Start with the head area. Squeeze the base of each ear to determine whether the animal has any ear mites. If the animal struggles, you can suspect it has ear mites.
⦁ Open and examine each ear to ascertain that the rabbit does not have ear mites.
⦁ Check the rabbit's eyes by pointing your index finger at each eye to make sure the animal is not blind. Also check each eye to make sure that the rabbit does not have weepy-eye, a disease problem.
⦁ Turn your rabbit smoothly on its back. This is a very important step. Judges will be closely observing whether the rabbit is under your control.
⦁ Make sure you provide enough support on the table for the rabbit when you turn it around. Don't allow the animal to struggle or kick you in the face. Try to accomplish the turn in your initial attempt. The turning should be done in a very smooth way.
⦁ Practice turning the rabbit on its back by getting a firm hold of the shoulder skin over the ears (as you do when beginning to handle your animal).
⦁ Keep the hindquarters resting on the table and use your right hand to make a swing to the right so that the animal is completely on it back.
⦁ Keep a firm grip with your right hand while supporting the weight of the animal on the table.
⦁ Point your left index finger to the rabbit's nose area and look for any white discharge (a sign of a cold).
⦁ With your left thumb and index finger, pull back the animal's lips (first the upper and the lower) to check the condition of the teeth.
⦁ Carefully check for any problems with buck teeth, a hereditary condition which is a disqualification.
⦁ Pull each front leg toward you to see if the legs are straight, crooked, or bowed.
⦁ Press the palm of each foreleg to examine the color of the toenails and to look for missing toenails.
⦁ Run your left hand over the chest and abdomen areas to check for any abscesses, tumors, or other abnormalities.
⦁ As you come to the end of the abdomen area, grasp the thigh area of the hind legs and push it straight downward with the palm of your left hand to determine the straightness of the hind legs. Note whether or not they are parallel.
⦁ Release your hand from the high area and check the hock areas to any sign of sore hock. If a scab is visible, press it to see whether it is an old scab or if it is fresh. If it is fresh, it will bleed and the animal may struggle. This would then mean an elimination.
⦁ Examine the color of the toenails on the hind legs; also check for missing nails.
⦁ Check the sex area of the animal to determine the sex and locate any obvious disease problem.
⦁ To check the sex, hold the tail between your left index and middle fingers and press down on the sex area with your thumb. Apply a slight pressure.
⦁ Feel the tail to see whether it is broken.
⦁ Turn the rabbit back to the original position (its head facing your left).
⦁ Check the balance of the tail to see whether the rabbit has a wry tail or any other tail deformity.
⦁ Set the ears of the rabbit properly. Check to see if they are carried in a position which is normal for its breed.
⦁ Check the meat quality of the animal by feeling the meat on the shoulders, ribs, loins, rump, etc.
⦁ Examine the fur quality by running your hand from the tail to the head and back. Look at the guard hairs. You may also blow on the fur to examine the density of the fur.
Selecting and Grooming Rabbit Training
Class Determination
You must be sure of the sex of any rabbits you are going to show, because sex is one of the things that determines the class in which you will enter your rabbits.
The other factors that determine class are the age, weight, variety, and breed of your rabbits. You should check the necessary standards for your breed.
rabbit grooming
You will also need to begin grooming your rabbits that you have selected for show at least 6 weeks before the show date.
Daily grooming not only improves the appearance of your rabbits, it also tames them and makes them easier to handle at the show.
Good Tip
It is also a good idea to play a radio near your rabbit house to get them used to voices and the extra noise they will certainly encounter at shows.
How to Prepare for a Rabbit Show
Choosing rabbit(s) and completing show entries
First and foremost you have to choose the animals that you believe will be of show quality and will do well at the show. Some shows, such as county fair shows and 4-H shows, also require that participants carry out additional activities as part of their rabbit competition. These additional entries should not be seen as a daunting task, but instead as a more opportunities to excel in your rabbit project and be rewarded for your hard work. You should complete these entries well in advance.
Nutrition and Conditioning
Months prior to the show you should be conditioning your rabbit for the show. Make sure that your animal is getting the proper nutrition. If you choose to feed your rabbit supplements, first contact your veterinarian or use a knowledgeable, reputable source, then follow the instructions given. ALWAYS make sure that your rabbit has water available.
Grooming
You should groom your rabbit often. Grooming will help your rabbit’s temperament by allowing the animal to get used to being handled. It will also greatly improve the condition, luster, body and texture of your rabbit’s coat. It will also help you establish a trust relationship with your rabbit. The rabbit will learn to trust you and hence not become as stressed when handled. This will also help you to learn your rabbit’s habits. Also remember to cut your rabbit’s nails prior to the show.
Register for the show
Some shows require that you register in advance and may require that an entry fee be paid. Make sure that you complete the registration in advance and whatever additional requirements there may be in order to participate. If your entry is submitted late, you may not be allowed to participate in the show.
Transportation
Transporting the animals to and from the show should be done as comfortably for the animal as possible. Exposing the rabbit to extreme heat or cold can be damaging to both the animals condition and health. Make sure that you take water bottles, feeders, feed and water to rabbit shows the rabbit show. If the rabbit it traveling in an air-conditioned car, make sure that the A/C vent is not directly blowing air at the rabbit as this can make them sick.
Be on time
It is your responsibility at a rabbit show to make sure your animals reach the judging table at the appropriate time. In order to accomplish this, one must pay attention to the order of judging, which judge will be handling your breed, and which variety and class is to be brought up for judging next.

Now we discussed some breeds needing to be posed differently, and one of those is the Belgian Hare.

Training Belgian Hares to pose
Training and Showing
By Frank Zaloudek
When you look at the picture of the Belgian Hare in the ARBA Standard of Perfection, your attention is immediately drawn to its pose, standing on the toes of its fully extended front legs, ears erect, body carried high above the floor and with a wild look in its eye. If you have been around Belgians for a while, you will learn that this is the pose it takes only when excited, startled or when it is eagerly anticipating food or drink. It is not a pose that it would take in a relaxed, non threatening situation or in the intimidating surroundings of the showroom. How do you get you Belgians to pose as it the picture? The simple answer is that they have to be trained!
The problem is that there are many ways an exhibitor can train a Hare to pose, and there are just as many ways that judges use to pose a Hare. If the Hare's training and the judges set-up technique "click", then it might be successfully posed; otherwise, the judging can degrade to a "wrestling match" ("acrobatics at a Halloween party" as characterized by the late Dr. Terry Reed) between the judge and the Hare during which time is wasted and the Hare, no matter how deserving, will be at a disadvantage to Hares that pose easily.
How can these "wrestling matches" be avoided? Is it the responsibility of the judges, of the breeder/exhibitor, or both? Perhaps we can get some answers to these questions if we look at techniques used and advocated by some judges and breeder/exhibitors.
There seems to be a number of basic methods in use at the present time. These methods can be characterized in the following descriptive terms:
The "natural pose" method
The "shoulder pressure" method
"Ear lift" method
"Head lift" method
"Body stretch" method
and combinations of the above. Lets look at a description of each of these methods and comments on some of them as presented in past issues of the ABHC "Spotlight" and the ABHC Guidebook.
Natural Pose Method
In the "Natural Pose" method, no attempt is made by the judge to set up the Hare; instead, it is allowed to move about naturally in a judging coop. John C. Fehr wrote in the 1975 ABHC Guidebook, "Many a fine Belgian Hare loses out because of not being properly handled. You need not wrestle a Belgian Hare around nor stretch his limbs out like a chiropractor would do; he will show you in the coop where he is weak and where he stands out. Mr. Fehr described his judging technique as follows: "You must have a wire coop large enough so that your rabbit can run around and stand up, one for each entry. After you have taken them out to examine for disqualifications, they are placed back into the coop. Judging is then done in the coop. A good idea is to place one which looks good at the head of the class, the next best and so on. Now is the time to go along the line and study their action, moving them back or forward from coop to coop. Don't make snap judgments. After you eliminate your class down to the five winners, your job really begins all over again. Here the experienced Belgian Hare exhibitor has the advantage. He has worked with his Hares to the point that they are really proud to show off."
By allowing the Hares to pose naturally takes the pressure off the judge to make the animals all assume a, more or less, identical pose. However, it requires the breeder/exhibitor to "condition" his hares so that they will move about the judging coop in a manner to show off their best attributes. A Hare cowering in the corner of the coop because of the intimidating surroundings and crowds will certainly will not show off his best stuff to the judge! What can the breeder do to prepare his animals? It's important that a breeder frequently handle his Hares so that they will be accustomed to being handled and examined. Placing them on the judging table before the show starts can get them familiar with the surroundings and placing them on your grooming table prior to judging can prepare them for the presence of spectators (a Hare on display seems to always be able to attract a crowd).
Shoulder Pressure Method
In an article written for the ABHC Spotlight, Dr. Terry Reed recommended that Belgian Hare enthusiasts attempt to train their animals using a method similar to the following:
1. Position the hind legs in a manner such that the animal is sitting squarely on the hind legs in a natural position.
2. With one hand between the forelegs, the front portion of the Hare is gently raised and at the same time very gently pushed backwards until the animal extends its front legs.
3. During the extension of the front legs, a light amount of pressure is placed on the shoulders with the opposing hand.
4. As the Hare rests the tip of the toes on the extended limbs, the hand is removed from between the legs.
5. Slight alternating pressure is maintained on the top of the shoulders until it can be removed and the animal maintains its stance. (The Hare will tend to rise up to resist the pressure, there by extending its front leg and raising its head.)
6. Stepping back from the table, it is anticipated that the animal will maintain position and look about alertly.
7. After the animal has been completely evaluated in the posed position, one can allow the animal to move back and forth on the table to evaluate the extension of limbs and other characteristics. Caution should be utilized not to "wear the animal out" on the table.
Dr. Reed advised, " The posing position will not "just happen" with regularity and it is anticipated that the younger the animal and the more frequent it is handled and posed, the more natural it will become for the Belgian Hare to pose on the table. However, with noise, strange environment, and other peculiarities, the position must be adjusted from time to time to accomplish the correct pose."
He also advised that, "Due to the extremely long legs, long body, fine bone, and fragile ears, it is extremely important that when handling the Hare, one is very gentle and uses extreme caution in protecting the animal to the best of their ability. Due to the temperament of the Belgian Hare, one must be firm, but not aggressive in the handling procedure or the animal will become extremely excited and there is a possibility of self trauma to these beautiful creatures." Most Belgian Hare breeders will agree that their animals are most certainly more robust than they appear and a judge should not be afraid of handling them in a normal manner. A Hare should, of course, not be abused, but neither should any other breed of rabbit.
Ear Lift Method
Ted Gordon described the "ear lift" method in the 1975 ABHC Guidebook. He noted, "Posing for show seems to be a matter of the Hare's confidence in the handler, much training so that the Belgian knows what is wanted, and the inborn proud attitude of the "King of the Fancy." "The system of training that seems to work for us begins at about weaning age. Time is spent every day even if it is just a minute apiece to get the animals used to being handled. I try not to "pet" them -- that is, stroke them from the shoulders to hips -- because then they tend to flatten out or crouch down (though they do enjoy being petted). Running both hands along the sides of the Hare, lifting the front quarters slightly and then tucking the hindquarters as you pass over them gives the young Hare the idea of being high on the front legs."
To pose a Belgian Place the Hare on a piece of carpet facing left.
1. Place the back feet out at about 30 degrees on each side to give a good solid base to sit on, and untuck the tail if necessary.
2. Grasp the ears gently in your right hand and place the left hand, palm up and fingers pointing away from you, under the belly.
3. Move the left hand up to behind the front legs extending them fully. Lift with the left hand and at the same time gently raise the Hare with the right hand which is grasping the ears. Lift up and back with as much weight as possible on the rear feet. There is some gentle pull on the ears with your right hand, but you are also supporting the chest with the left hand. See the accompanying photograph for correct hand position.
4. Raise the Hare in this manner until his feet are clearing the carpet and hanging straight. Ease the pressure of the right hand on the ears and lower him slowly onto his tip toes, encouraging the Hare to support himself high on his front legs.
"It will take many, many times to get a Hare to hold this stance at all -- as many as 20 to 25 attempts a day for a week before he learns. If he struggles, don't force him, but set him free and talk soothingly to him. Then start again. You gain the Belgian's confidence by working with him gently, and eventually he learns to enjoy the handling and seems to want to please you."
Mr. Gordon noted that, "If the Belgian Hare is going to respond (and most, but not all, eventually do) it will come after many attempts, and each attempt should follow the same order so that the Hare becomes accustomed to the same routine each time. Once the Belgian Hare will bear his weight on the front legs, the next step is to get him to "hold it" for a longer and longer period of time, talking to him gently, praising his effort, and "radiating your pleasure at his performance. If you "feel with" your Belgians a sense of shared joy in each others existence, these beautiful sensitive animals will respond. The old timers tell me that years ago, a well trained Hare would "hold" for three minutes or more!!"
Head Lift Method
The "Head Lift" method is a variation of the Ear Lift Method and is seen practiced by some judges and breeders/exhibitors that are reluctant or unaccustomed to pulling on a rabbit's ears, no matter how gently. It can also be use on individual specimens that refuse to have their ears grasped.
This method proceeds as follows:
1. Place the Hare facing away from you and to the left with back feet out at about 30 degrees on each side to give a good solid base to sit on, and untuck the tail if necessary.
2. Similarly to the Ear Lift Method, place the left hand, palm up and fingers pointing away from you, under the belly. Instead of grasping the ears, place the right hand along the Hare's left cheek. Place your bent thumb behind the ears and a finger under the Hare's chin. Use whatever finger is suitable to avoid placing pressure on the Hare's throat. Doing so will cause the Hare to struggle.
3. Move the left hand up to behind the front legs extending them fully. Lift with the left hand and at the same time gently raise the Hare's head with the right hand. Lift up and back with as much weight as possible on the rear feet. With you thumb, position the ears in the vertical position.
4. Raise the Hare in this manner until his feet are clearing the carpet and hanging straight, and slowly lower him onto his tip toes until his feet touch and the legs bear his weight. At some point, you will feel his body relax; when you do, slowly withdraw your left had from beneath his belly.
5. You will feel the Hare start to support his head and ease the pressure on your right hand. As he does, remove your right hand slowly in a manner that you do not brush the Hares whiskers abruptly. Doing so will make him flinch.
6. Anticipating that the Hare will hold this pose, stand back smartly and evaluate the animal.
When training the hare to pose, lavish praise on him when he holds a pose, even if very briefly. Sometimes a treat such as a raisin or a black sunflower seed given in reward for a good performance will solidify his training. After repeating this procedure frequently, 20 or more times daily for a week, you will find the Hare holding the pose quickly will little effort on your part. Ideally, he will snap into the pose when placed on the carpet and hold it for a brief period of time, but only few progress to that type of performance.
Body Stretch Method
Some popular Belgian Hare judges are currently using a previously undescribed, but apparently very successful method of posing Hares. This method seems to work on both highly trained animals and those who have had only minimal training. Furthermore, this method appears to induce a Hare to show off its finest attributes, and it can net outstanding and consistent results.
Although there are some variations on the application of this method, it essentially proceeds as follows:
1. Place the Hare on a piece of carpet at a 45 degree angle so that it is facing your right shoulder.
2. Straighten out the tail with your left hand if it is tucked under the body, and place your fingers under the body from the rear.
3. Place your right hand at the left cheek of the Hare, fingers extended. Place the bent forefinger in back of the ears, the bent ring or small finger under the chin, and the thumb on the forehead. Be careful not to put any pressure on the throat of the Hare or it will start struggling.
4. Simultaneously with both hands lift the Hare so that both fore and hind legs barely touch the rug. The Hare will extend its fore and hind legs to the maximum to try to maintain touch with the rug. Also, with the finger under the chin, tip the head slightly upwards and gently pull the head so that the Hare stretches out its body. Position the hare so that most of its weight will be placed on the hind legs when lowered to the rug.
5. Gently lower the Hare to the rug, tapping its front feet on the rug to encourage it to stand on its toes. Some will gently message the Hare's forehead with the thumb of the right hand to quiet the animal before releasing it; however, I have not found this particularly useful.
Slowly slip the left hand from under the hind end, and as the Hare relaxes, remove your right hand from its head and step back to evaluate it.
If at any time the Hare starts to struggle during posing, release it and start over again. This method seem to work best if the handlers actions are assertive but not abusive. Also, watch the palm of your right hand because it is in a vulnerable position should the Hare decide to bite.
The particular advantage of this method is that it will encouraged the Hare to both stretch and position its body, both front and rear, well off the rug.
One breeder doesn't start training hares until they are 10 weeks old. They were told that it is better to let their bones strengthen and I can see the sense in this. This breeder is probably in a small minority who don't start training Hares from a young age. However they find that it is no hindrance to the speed they learn.
Conclusion
As pointed out at the beginning, this is only a sampling of methods in use to pose Hares. There are probably other methods available and combinations of methods that will induce a Hare to assume the desired pose. However, it is important to note that a Hare will not pose without some effort be expended on the part of the breeder/exhibitor. With the many posing methods practiced by various judges, a breeder can only hope to expose his animals to enough of a variety of methods so that it will respond to the judges handling no matter what technique he uses. However, it means a lot of work by the breeder if he wants his animals to excel. It would be beneficial for both breeders and judges alike if some agreement, formal or informal, could be reached on a "standard" procedure. I have no propositions or suggestions on how such an agreement could be arrived at.
A few additional recommendations from the 4-H Rabbit Showmanship  
1.  Wear long sleeves to protect your arms from getting scratched.
2.  Handle your rabbit with care.
3.  Handle your rabbit often.
4.  NEVER lift or carry a rabbit by its ears.  This is painful for the rabbit.  Lifting by the ears causes damage to the ear veins.   Also, without the entire body being  supported, when a rabbit kicks to free itself, it may cause bone fractures in its  back or hind legs, and cause injury to nerves or tendons.     
5.  NEVER lift a rabbit by its legs.  This is painful, as well as can cause injury as  mentioned in No. 4.   
6.  NEVER lift a rabbit by the scruff of its neck without supporting the entire body  weight, as injuries can occur as mentioned in No. 4.
7.Put a rug or piece of carpet on the table or area where you are handling your  rabbit, so it can get a foothold when being worked with.  Smooth surfaces cause  a rabbit to slide, making it hard to handle, groom, and pose.  A rabbit will not  feel secure on smooth places, and may become afraid.      
8. Handle your rabbit during the cool part of the day.   
9.Handling rabbits when it is too hot can cause unnecessary stress and heat stroke.   
10.  Carry your rabbit by tucking its head under your arm while supporting its body  between your side and your same arm.  The rabbit’s eyes should be covered by  your elbow.  Support the hindquarters with your free hand.   

Show Preparation 
Grooming   
1.   Start grooming your rabbit at least six weeks before the show.   
2.   Groom in the cool part of the day.   
3.   Use a table covered with a rug or piece of carpet as a grooming stand. 
4.   Moisten your hands and rub them through the rabbit’s fur (from head to tail)  until it is damp.   
5.Once the fur is damp, stroke the rabbit from head to tail several times to remove    dead fur.    
6.   Do not rub the fur backwards (from tail to head) as that can break the guard  hairs.   
7.  Repeat steps 4 through 6 for several days.   
8.  Then continue to groom your rabbit daily by stroking the fur from head to tail  without dampening the fur.  This makes the fur shiny and tight.   
9.  Daily grooming improves the appearance of your rabbit, and tames it, making it  easier to handle.   
Showmanship   
Showmanship is a combination of: (1) your appearance; (2) knowledge about  rabbits; (3) handling and showing your rabbit, including knowing its faults  according to the ARBA breed standard; and (4)sportsmanship and show ring  ethics.   

http://florida4h.org/projects/rabbits/ShowRabbits/Activity9_Preparing.html
Rabbit Training
http://www.justrabbits.com/rabbit-training.html
Training Your Rabbit: Reality 101
by Dana Krempels, Ph.D.
http://www.bio.miami.edu/hare/training.html

Word of the Week:  Morning

Plant of the Week:  Chickweed

© Copyrighted