Giant Angora Rabbit Breed - Rabbit Cures the Dragon King - Incisor Malocclusion and Overgrowth

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Giant Angora Rabbit Breed
They say that Angora rabbits are the “Bunnies with a Bonus”. Whatever that bonus is, the Giant Angora still claims the upper hand . It's renowned wool is said to be seven times warmer than the wool of the sheep. Its wool is so valuable because rabbits can produce more than six times of wool per pound of body weight than the sheep, and on top of that, the dietary requirement is 30% less per pound than the sheep.
The Giant Angora is the largest of the ARBA recognized Angora breeds. It was originally developed to be an efficient commercial producer that could be sustained on 16-18% protein pellets plus hay, and live in the standard sized, all-wire cages.

Giant Angora Rabbit Breed History/Origin
For many years, the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) only recognized two types of Angoras – the French and the English – because the other types were not different enough to be considered a separate breed.
Because ARBA wouldn't allow German Angoras to be shown (their body type was considered too similar to the other Angora breeds), Louise Walsh of Taunton, Massachusetts created a new breed. Louise Walsh of Taunton Massachusetts set her sights on creating a larger breed of Angora that was different from the others. She used German Angoras, French Lops, and Flemish Giants to develop a completely different "commercial" body type. Walsh crossed German Angoras to larger commercial breeds and developed an all-white rabbit that had some ear and head furnishings with exceptional high-quality wool. ARBA officially recognized the Giant Angora in 1988. Its coat includes three types of wool: soft under wool, awn fluff, and awn hair.
Due to its large size, the Giant Angora rabbit requires a large enclosure to ensure a comfortable life.

Overall Description
It is to have a commercial-type body with a very dense coat of wool. The head will be oval in appearance that is broad across the forehead and slightly narrower at the muzzle. The Giant Angora will have forehead tufts (head trimmings) and cheek furnishings. The head trimmings are to be noticeable, however, does are not as heavy in trimmings as the bucks. The ears should be lightly fringed and well tasseled.

According to the ARBA Standard of Perfection, bucks should weigh 9 1/2 pounds (4.32 kg) or more. Does should weigh 10 pounds (4.54 kg) or more. There are no upper weight limits.
The Giant Angora is also the only breed of angora that is only shown as a ruby-eyed white.
The classification of the Giant Angora is different than the other Angora breeds due to the fact it is a 6-class animal. The junior buck and junior doe must be under 6 months of age and have a minimum weight of 4 ¾ pounds. The intermediate buck and intermediate doe are 6–8 months of age. The senior buck and senior doe are 8 months of age or over. The senior buck must weigh at least 9 ½ pounds. The senior doe must weigh at least 10 pounds.
With judging the Giant Angoras the majority of the points are based on the wool, which includes density, texture, and length. The points for "general type" include the body type, head, ears, eyes, feet, legs, and tail.
Like many other "giant" breeds of rabbits, the Giant Angora grows slowly. A doe usually takes more than a year to reach full maturity (size and weight). A buck can take up to 1.5 years to fully mature (size and weight).

Coat
Out of the four Angora breeds recognized by the ARBA, the Giant Angora rabbit produces the most wool. The Giant Angora produces more wool than the French, Satin or English Angoras. They have three different kinds of fiber in its wool: soft underwool (gentle waves and shine), awn fluff (crimped with a hooked end) and awn hair (guard hairs which are strong and straight). In order to keep their wool mat-free, be sure to brush it with a bristled brush once every two days or as necessary. If your Giant Angora’s wool gets a little dirty, spot-clean it with a damp towel.
Despite being a descendant of the German Angoras, which do not molt, Giant Angoras go through a partial molt. However, their wool needs to be harvested 3-4 times a year by owners using shears or scissors and can produce 1-2 lbs of wool per year. Giant Angora wool is perfect to be dyed and made into clothes such as socks and mittens.
The awn type wool exists only in the Giant and German Angora breeds. The Giant Angora has furnishings on the face and ears. Many people confuse the German with the Giant Angora, but it is their body type that differs.
The Giant Angora coat contains three fiber types for its texture. The underwool is to be the most dominant over the other two types of hair. It should be medium fine, soft, delicately waved and have a gentle shine.
The Awn Fluff has a guard hair tip and is a stronger, wavy wool. The Awn Fluff is found between the Underwool and Awn Hair. The Awn Hair, also known as guard hair, is the third type of fiber. The Awn Hair is a straight, strong hair that protrudes above the wool and must be present and evident.
Most Giant Angoras do not fully molt, so breeders eagerly harvest the wool by shearing and hand-spin it into yarn, often mixing it with other animal fiber to give it strength. Then they dye it beautiful colors and knit it into assorted creative and useful garments. Giant Angora wool is perfect to be dyed and made into clothes such as socks and mittens. Today most spinning is done by hobbyists and small farmers. Beginning spinners may find Angora wool a challenge. In the past, commercial wool production was a healthy industry in the United States, but now China produces the most rabbit wool commercially.

Colors
Like other Angoras, the Giant Angora rabbit comes in a variety of hues from grey to brown to black, and broken colors. However, the only color that is accepted by the ARBA is REW (ruby-eyed white rabbits), also called albino rabbits.
A Black color variety of the Giant Angora is in development, but has not been sanctioned by ARBA.

Care Requirements
Due to its large size, this rabbit requires an equally large enclosure to ensure a lengthy, comfortable life. Should your Giant Angora rabbit be an outdoor rabbit, wood enclosures that are raised from the ground and have a fenced bottom are preferred to keep them safe from the elements as well as predators. Indoor enclosures should have a wire frame and a plastic bottom where pet owners can place bedding. Some rabbit cages also have wire bottoms, however the wire is harsh on your rabbit’s feet. Be sure to spot-clean the bedding every day to give your rabbit a dung-free area to sleep and change the bedding every week or more as needed.  Giant Angora rabbits should always have a few toys to keep them entertained.

Diet
The Giant Angora was originally developed to be an efficient commercial producer that could be sustained on 16-18% protein pellets plus hay.
Now who better that the original breeder for this Breed to speak about food.
Evergreen Farm has been on the New England landscape for over 40 years. They are considered experts in the field of Angora Rabbits.
Louise Walsh, Founder of Evergreen Farm , is the creator of the largest AMERICAN wool bearing type of rabbit in the world to date. The Giant Angora.
So I have notes about feed from Evergreen Farm where the breed was created.
"You are better off getting your food from a feed store such as Agway or a feed and garden store. You will find the food much fresher than that which is commercially available in pet stores. Though pet stores have a gift of making their feeds attractive, their turnover of product is much slower than a grain mill store, thus the freshness in the pet store can not usually measure up to that of the feed store. In reading the feed label if it says “forage and grain products” it might mean whatever they can obtain as cheaply as possible. It will give inconsistent ingredients and can give your bunny some digestive problems. Best to stay away from this one. Go for a feed that lists ingredients such as oats, wheat, or barley for energy. Corn is nasty as a primary grain. It makes a bunny fat. . High fiber and low protein feeds seem to work quite well on angora rabbits. I, personally wouldn’t want a protein over 18%. I like high fiber (good roughage to help the rabbit pass ingested hair). In grain stores you might consider a 50 lb bag of feed. It’s the cheapest practical way to purchase and after three months, when you’re still working on the bag, consider freezing the remainder. It won’t hurt it at all and it will maintain it’s freshness.
HAY: = EXTREMELY important nutritional resource.
Very young bunnies consume hay in their nest as soon as they can nibble a food. It’s an excellent source of fiber, a great diet food for the pudgy bunny. It’s loaded with vitamins, minerals and a definite fun food. Best are low protein grass hays, such as timothy or orchard grass. These can be offered to the bunny as free choice (even Weight Watchers would approve. Lots of people gravitate toward alfalfa. It’s not a good idea as its high protein. Remember what I said about protein?
NATURALLY DELICIOUS FOODS: You thought I wouldn’t say carrots? Of course, carrots. kale, romaine lettuce, a small slice of apple, dandelion, clover, parsley, blackberry leaves
Also any wholesome cereal, . Birdseed, sunflower seeds, dried fruit, oatmeal & cheerios . That should be enough goodies."

Health
Giant Angora wool is perfect to be dyed and made into clothes such as socks and mittens. The most worrisome health issue a Giant Angora rabbit has to worry about is the possibility of developing wool block. Rabbits are clean creatures and like other animals, enjoy grooming themselves to keep their coat in good condition. Some animals, like cats, regurgitate the fur that they accidentally swallow – rabbits don’t have that ability. Instead, due to a diet that is poor in hay, the wool get stuck in their stomachs and creates sort of a hairball. The rabbit believes their bellies are full and refuses to eat and eventually dies of starvation. Symptoms of wool block include lack of appetite, less droppings and a less active rabbit overall. Should you suspect your rabbit is experiencing wool block, be sure to rush them to your local veterinarian to get the problem sorted.
All rabbits are also susceptible to developing overgrown teeth. This problem is also caused to a diet that lacks a proper balance of hay, which is used to slowly grind down their teeth naturally. Overgrown teeth can grow into a rabbit’s jaw and face and be very painful. In order to prevent this, make sure to check your rabbit’s mouth every once in a while to check for overgrown teeth and always make sure they have a proper diet consisting of mostly hay.
Care of the Giant Angora's wool coat is not as difficult as the care needed by the English Angora rabbit. However, angoras are susceptible to starvation by wool block, and are more sensitive to temperature changes due to their incredibly thick coats (or during the 1 - 1.5 months immediately following a shearing).

Temperament/Behavior
Giant Angoras should have as much time outside of their enclosures as possible in order for their individual personalities to really shine. Rabbits who are mostly kept in their enclosures and away from human activity do not have the time to interact with their humans and won’t be able to create a lasting relationship. Whether you decide to keep your Angora indoors or out, make sure they have plenty of room to roam around freely and safely. Indoor rabbits should have the freedom to hop around your rooms and have access to sunlight, while outdoor rabbits should be out of their enclosures a few hours every day to stretch their legs in a fenced yard or run.
Giant Angoras are mostly used as fiber animals, meaning they are generally bred to produce wool. However, should you decide to keep this rabbit breed as a pet, be sure to socialize them when they are kits in order to have a well-rounded bunny that does well with smaller children and perhaps even other animals.
Rabbits are not easy animals to litter train, however it is possible with lots of patience and rewards when they do the deed in the correct spot. Many owners find having several litter boxes spread across the home is a necessary evil in order for their indoor rabbit not to leave their droppings all over their home. They also find that if their rabbit is prone to doing the deed in one particular corner, they place a litter box in that corner so the rabbit can make the connection and understand that they should be doing their business in the box and not outside the box wherever they please.

Evergreen Farm
Evergreen Farm has been on the New England landscape for over 40 years. They are considered experts in the field of Angora Rabbits.
Louise Walsh, Founder of Evergreen Farm , is the creator of the largest AMERICAN wool bearing type of rabbit in the world to date. The Giant Angora.
In the past their facility has housed over 7,000 rabbits at one time.
Through their barn doors people from all over the world have passed who have purchased and visited their wooly residents.
At the time of the release of this episode they have rabbits available as well as wool products.

Clubs
The National Angora Rabbit Breeders Club, Inc (NARBC, Inc) was first organized as a specialty club for Angora breeders in 1932 with the AR&CBA (now the ARBA). The NARBC, Inc still remains a chartered National Specialty Club with the ARBA.
United Angora Rabbit Breeders Club (UARC) was chartered by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) in 2007 through the hard work of a handful of dedicated breeders. In February of 2012, the UARC became affiliated with the National Angora Rabbit Breeders Club (NARBC). The UARC is a club for all Angora rabbit fanciers, whether their interests are showing, breeding, or fiber related. A club that is run by its members, for its members, for the promotion of Angoras through shared information, shows, meetings, and instruction in a creative and positive atmosphere. All club communication is done via the internet (email, yahoo group, and Facebook) including a club newsletter (when one is sent out).
There is an Appalachian Angora Rabbit Club who have a page on Facebook, but their website seems to redirect to a Slim Korean Fashion Harem children's clothes website.

Closing
Giant Angora Rabbits are endangered as a breed. According to the Rabbit Geek, In 2006 and 2014, they ranked #2 on the Rare Breeds List, the second-rarest rabbit breed, after the Blanc de Hotot.
This breed is for rabbit owners serious about spinning, fiber arts or selling fiber, who have the time & space to handle this gentle giant

https://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/giant-angora-rabbit/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angora_rabbit
https://www.raising-rabbits.com/giant-angora-rabbits.html
https://hickoryhillllamas.com/giant-angora-rabbits/
http://www.adoptarabbit.com/breeds/giant-angora/
http://rabbitbreeders.us/giant-angora-rabbits
https://angorarabbit.com/cms/articles/angora-rabbit-breeds/giant-angora-rabbit-breed/
https://www.thecapecoop.com/what-breed-angora-rabbit-is-right-for-you/
http://www.evergreenfarm.biz/about_us
http://nationalangorarabbitbreeders.com/new/

Rabbit Cures the Dragon King (A Korean Legend)
Sep 29, 2002

by Amy Friedman and Meredith Johnson

Long ago, in a land beneath the sea, the Dragon King was dying of a mysterious illness. The creatures of the undersea kingdom swam frantically to and fro, circling their king as he lay on his coral throne, wondering what they could do to help. At last the sea horse announced a cure. "The king must eat the liver of a rabbit," he said. "That will cure him."

The Dragon King was overjoyed to hear this news, but the others were alarmed. "How will we find a rabbit's liver?" the shark asked the sea urchin. "I've no idea what we should do," wailed the cuttlefish to the cod. "How can we get this medicine to save our king?" moaned the octopus, and he twisted himself up in knots as he wrung his tentacles.
But the turtle grinned. "I can fetch a rabbit," he said proudly. "I am the one sea creature who can also live on land."
"Then do so at once," commanded the Dragon King, and without a moment's hesitation, the turtle swam toward the surface of the sea. He would find a rabbit, he would.
When he arrived on the shore, he was struck by a troubling thought and paused to consider the situation. How would he convince a rabbit to swim beneath the sea with him? And how would he catch a rabbit? He had never actually met a rabbit, but he had seen them bounding through the forest when, on occasion, he sat upon the land sunning himself.
As he crawled along the shore, a rabbit happened along. She had heard stories of turtles and was curious.
"Hello there, turtle," the rabbit said.
"Why hello, rabbit," the startled turtle answered. "I ... I didn't see you there."
"Here I am," said the rabbit, "curious to know a turtle. I've never known one, you see." And so they talked for a while, learning about each other's world. Then the rabbit said, "I'd love to see your kingdom someday."
"You would?" the turtle asked, surprised.
"Why yes," said the rabbit. "You've told me all about the coral castles and the glittering shells. It must be a beautiful place."
"Why don't you come with me?" asked the turtle.
"I will!" the rabbit replied. "I can hold my breath very well, and I do so wish to see this Dragon King I've heard about."
And with that the arrangements were made, and the rabbit hopped on the turtle's back, and splash! into the water they swam.
For as long as possible, the turtle swam upon the surface, as he did not want his new friend to hold her breath for too long. The rabbit enjoyed the ride as they swam farther and farther from shore.
Back on shore the monkeys let out wails, and the other forest creatures waved to the rabbit. "Don't go underwater," they called, but the rabbit was too excited to listen, and besides, she was enjoying her ride.
Finally the turtle knew he would have to dive down toward his kingdom, and now he regretted bringing the rabbit along. How could he allow his new friend to give up her life -- and yet, he had to save the Dragon King.
"Hang on," he called to the rabbit as he dived for the deep. Down, down, down they swam, and soon they arrived at the Dragon King's castle. The king was lying on his coral throne, looking very ill.
"This is my king," the turtle said to her. And to the king, with some embarrassment, he said, "Your Majesty, this is your rabbit."
"'His' rabbit?" the rabbit asked. "What do you mean, friend?"
"My king needs a rabbit's liver to save his life," the turtle said sadly.
"Does he?" the rabbit asked.
The turtle looked down at the ocean floor and a tear dripped from his eye.
"We have a problem," the rabbit said. "I've left my liver back in the forest. I'm afraid you'll have to take me home, where I can pick up my liver. Then we will return to give it to your king."
"Hurry then," the Dragon King feebly implored. "Go, and return quickly. I'm very weak now."
And so the turtle turned around, with the rabbit on his back, and off they swam. When they arrived at the shore, the rabbit quickly hopped off her friend's back. "I'll be right back," she said. She scampered into the forest, where she plucked a persimmon. Tearing open the fruit, she picked out several seeds, and these she wrapped in a leaf. Then she returned to the turtle. "I'm ready," she said, and off they swam, back to the kingdom beneath the sea.
"I hereby offer you my liver," said the rabbit to the Dragon King, bowing low. "May you live in good health for many years." She handed the persimmon seeds to the king, who did not recognize them, of course. Under the sea, they had never seen persimmon seeds. Only the turtle understood.
The king quickly swallowed the seeds, and a moment later he stood and patted the turtle's head. "I am cured!" he announced, "and as for you, rabbit, you have served our creatures well. We will always honor the rabbit."
With that the turtle carried his friend back to shore. They never saw each other again, but they never forgot each other. And only the turtle, of all the undersea creatures, understood how truly wise the rabbit was.

https://www.uexpress.com/tell-me-a-story/2002/9/29/rabbit-cures-the-dragon-king-a

Abnormality of Incisor Teeth in Rabbits
Incisor Malocclusion and Overgrowth in Rabbits
A rabbit's teeth usually grow throughout its life, and a high fiber diet, with foods that warrant heavy chewing, are required for proper alignment and functioning, as the coarse foods help to keep the teeth at a manageable length. Occlusion, the fitting together of the teeth of the upper and lower jaws when the mouth is closed, can be hampered by overgrowth of one or more of the teeth, a condition referred to as malocclusion (where the prefix mal- joined with -occlusion refers to the ill-fitting shape of the teeth).
If elongation of the cheek teeth occurs, complete closure of the mouth cannot be achieved, and the upper incisor teeth are prevented from coming into contact with the lower incisors, leading to excessive growth of the incisors. The incisor teeth can grow as much as one mm a day if left unopposed by the opposite jaw – the meeting/occlusion of the teeth, along with a diet high in roughage, acts as a natural inhibitor of the tooth's growth.
Symptoms and Types
Readily visible teeth
Excessive drooling
Tooth grinding
Nasal discharge
Food drops out of mouth
Preference for softer foods
Preference for a water bowl over a sipper bottle
Decreased appetite or complete loss of appetite (anorexia)
Weight loss
Excessive tear production
Facial asymmetry or exophthalmos (protrusion of eyeball)
Pain (i.e., reluctance to move, depression, lethargy, hiding, hunched posture)
Unkempt hair coat due to lack of self grooming
Causes
There are many factors that can lead to cheek teeth overgrowth. The most significant contributing or exacerbating factor is a diet that contains inadequate amounts of the coarse roughage material that is required for properly grinding the tooth's surface, allowing the incisors to grow into the surrounding soft tissues, damaging the tissue and even leading to secondary bacterial infections in the mouth. Dwarf and lop breeds have been found to be at an increased risk for congenital malocclusion, as they are more prone to skeletal abnormalities.
Diagnosis
Your veterinarian will perform a thorough physical exam on your rabbit, differentiating between overgrown incisors and other tumors of the mouth of skull. Visual diagnostics will include skull and face X-rays, and computed tomography (CT) for better viewing of abnormalities. A fine needle aspiration (drawing and analyzing the fluid from swelling) will be taken for laboratory testing. A complete blood profile will be conducted, including a chemical blood profile, complete blood count, urinalysis, and a bacterial culture to determine the exact strain of bacteria so that the appropriate antibiotics can be prescribed.
Treatment
Treatment, whether outpatient or inpatient, will be based on the severity of the symptoms. Fluids may need to be given if your rabbit is dehydrated, and intravenous nutrition if your rabbit has been suffering from a condition of anorexia. Appropriate antibiotic therapy will be given with caution. This is not the primary choice of treatment. If necessary, surgery may be performed to trim the teeth, extract teeth that cannot be repaired, or drain abscess that have occurred as a result of the malocclusion.
In some cases, the intestinal tract may have been affected as well, and surgery may be required to remove solids from the intestine. After you have returned home, monitor your rabbit's appetite and production of feces, and report any abnormalities to your veterinarian immediately, as death may occur due to sudden and severe complications.
Living and Management
A warm, quiet environment will need to be set aside for your rabbit to recover in, but encourage a return to activity as soon as possible, as activity can greatly enhance recovery. If the rabbit is not too tired, encourage exercise (hopping) for at least 10-15 minutes every 6-8 hours.
After the initial treatment, most rabbits will require assisted feeding for 36-48 hours postoperatively. Keep fur around the face clean and dry. It is important that your rabbit continue to eat during and following treatment. Encourage oral fluid intake by offering fresh water, wetting leafy vegetables, or flavoring water with vegetable juice, and offer a large selection of fresh, moistened greens such as cilantro, romaine lettuce, parsley, carrot tops, dandelion greens, spinach, collard greens, and good-quality grass hay. Feed timothy and grass hay instead of alfalfa hay, but also continue to offer your rabbit its usual pelleted diet, as the initial goal is to get the rabbit to eat and to maintain its weight and nutritional status. If your rabbit refuses these foods, you will need to syringe feed a gruel mixture until it can eat again on its own. Unless your veterinarian has specifically advised it, do not feed your rabbit high-carbohydrate, high-fat nutritional supplements.
Recurrence is likely, so it is important to provide adequate tough, fibrous foods such as hay and grasses to encourage normal wear of teeth. Lifelong treatment, with periodic teeth trimming, is often required, usually every 1-3 months. This, in turn, will require both an investment in time and money on your part.
Euthanasia may be warranted with severe or advanced disease, especially in rabbits that are in constant and/or severe pain, or cannot eat.
https://www.petmd.com/rabbit/conditions/mouth/c_rb_incisor_malocclusion_overgrowth

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