Dutch Rabbit Breed - Jesper the Rabbit Herder - Measure

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Today we are going to cover the Dutch Rabbit breed.
The Dutch rabbit, also known as Hollander or Brabander is easily identifiable by its characteristic color pattern, was once the most popular of all rabbit breeds. However, after dwarf rabbits were developed, the popularity of the Dutch rabbit dwindled. Nevertheless, the Dutch rabbit remains one of the top ten most popular breeds worldwide. The Dutch is a classy rabbit easily recognized in the best of circles.

We had a few purchases through the Amazon link on the web site. We still need a few more purchases so that Amazon will not shut down the account, so please use the link on the hare of the rabbit .com website page.

Our Amazon item of the week is:

This is a charming pendant that will spruce up any outfit and become your go to favorite accessory! The pendant is sterling silver plated and approximately 1” in diameter with the delightful 3D urethane encased Dutch Rabbit. The included snake chain is 22” in length, made from brass and 95.5% sterling silver plated, and closes with a spring ring clasp. A note of concern is that the sterling silver plated items can tarnish over time when exposed to the air, but can be easily cleaned with a silver polishing cream.

Last week we covered the Polish rabbit, and some breeds, such as the Polish, can’t actually claim origin from their namesake country, but the Dutch is indeed from the Netherlands. The Dutch color originated in a breed called the Petite Brabicon, that by the time it appeared in England around 1850, was called the Hollander. In the early stages of the breed’s history, there were two marking patterns: one was the Dutch we know today, the other was similar, but more of the rabbit was colored and it had just a white blaze and white collar.

The UK is actually the country in which the Dutch breed was established and standardized, though the actual bloodlines are from the Netherlands. British rabbit breeders of the early 1800’s obtained recently arrived Brabancons at the London ports and added them to their breeding programs.
The breed in England was called the Dutch breed as early as 1835.
During the 1830s rabbits were imported to England from Ostend in Belgium every week for the meat market.  Among these rabbits was a breed known as the Petite Brabançon, as it originated from Brabant in Flanders. The Petite Brabançon may still be found in paintings from the fifteenth century. The Dutch rabbit has its genetic roots in this old breed. The Petite Brabançon would often display Dutch markings, and breeders in England selected those with even markings, fixing those markings into the breed we know today
The earliest engraving of the Dutch breed reveals a nearly entirely colored rabbit which possessed two white front paws and a narrow collar covering little more than the animal’s dewlap region. It did not even have a blaze, though many Dutch animals did, as did the Brabancon from which the Dutch was developed.
At the time, they weighed up to 9 pounds, and were cobby and muscular in type. The does were prolific, and could be counted on to mother their litters well.
Fanciers of the developing Dutch breed continued to line-breed and in-breed the Dutch. In-breeding significantly reduced the size of the breed from 9 pounds down to as little as 1.25 pounds in a few animals.
The Dutch is one of the oldest breeds as it was developed around 1864, indeed the United Kingdom Dutch Rabbit Club was founded in 1879
Controversy over the direction of the breed prompted calls for the creation of a Dutch Rabbit Club, which was established in December, 1884. The Dutch markings and type were then standardized in England by the late 1880’s.
Today’s familiar Dutch breed has remained unchanged since then.
During World War 2, in Britain, the Dutch rabbit was crossed with larger breeds for meat production. It has also been used in the laboratory.
Dutch breed rabbits arrived in the USA at the beginning of the 1900’s, and was one of the first breeds accepted at the formation of the National Pet Stock Association, forerunner to the ARBA, in 1910.
The Dutch rabbit is among the first rabbit breeds recognized by the National Pet Stock Association, the forerunner of the American Rabbit Breeders Association. The NPSA was founded in 1910 and had several name changes until becoming the ARBA in 1952. According to Bob D. Whitman’s book “Domestic Rabbits & Their Histories,” the Dutch breed is descended from the Brabancon breed out of Belgium. It got its name by 1835, and the first written account describing the breed appears in “Manuals For The Many,” dated 1865. Whitman credits the original Dutch breed to England.
The Dutch is one of the oldest breeds of domestic rabbit known, owing its existence, as do all domestic rabbits, to the much earlier domestication of the European wild rabbit, or (true rabbit). Considered a fancy rabbit due to their distinctive Dutch markings, the Dutch Rabbit, has from its introduction, benefited from the careful attention of breeders over the years who have continue improving the breed and expanding the available varieties while maintaining and perfecting the distinctive markings. Special attention has been paid to perfecting the general body type of the Dutch breed to the standard of perfection we know today. Due to the high expectations demanded for perfection in type and markings, the Dutch is one of the greatest challenges for the prospective and experienced breeder alike.
The Dutch rabbit is probably one of the easiest breeds to identify because of the distinctive white markings. The white blaze on the nose, and the white collar and the “saddle” on the back are a dead giveaway. Dutch are a small breed, but not a dwarf. The fur is normal length, with a soft under layer covered by longer guard hairs. The fur is flyback, meaning that if brushed opposite to the direction of growth, the fur quickly snaps back to normal position. Ears are upright.
The breed is recognized by both British Rabbit Council and the American Rabbit Breeders Association. Today, the Dutch rabbit is a very popular breed for show and also raised as pets.
Descriptions and Standards
In the USA: Dutch are a small rabbit breed weighing up to 5.5 pounds. They are compact and cobby in type, and recognized in 7 varieties: Black, blue, chinchilla, chocolate, gray, steel, tortoiseshell
In the UK: The "ideal" weight is 2.041 – 2.26 kg (4.5 - 5 lb). The breed is accepted in 9 varieties: Black, Blue, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell, Steel Grey, Brown Grey, and Pale Grey. Tri-colored Dutch is recognized as a separate breed.
The American Rabbit Breeders Association recognizes seven varieties of Dutch rabbit colors, all mixed with the white markings characteristic to the Dutch. The colors are: black, blue, chinchilla, chocolate, gray, steel, and tortoise. A lilac color is currently in development. Recognized eye color ranges from brown to brown with a ruby cast to dark brown to blue-gray.
The BRC standards require a compact, cobby rabbit with firm flesh and a glossy coat. The ideal weight is between 2.041 kg and 2.26 kg. The ears should be short and strong, the eyes bold and bright and the cheeks should be rounded. The blaze should be wedge shaped, carrying up to a point between the ears. The line dividing the white fur from the contrasting color in the saddle (middle of the body) should continue round under the body (called the undercut at that point) in an even and straight line. Foot stops, that is the white markings on the hind feet, should be about 3.17 cm in length and cut cleanly round the foot, similar to the saddle and undercut on the body.
Body
To be considered a show rabbit the body should be compact, having a close-coupled appearance with a nicely rounded back. From directly behind the head the rabbit should display an even pleasing curve up over the shoulders it its highest point at the loin and hips, then rounding off into full and smooth hindquarters. Looking from the top, the rabbit’s shoulders should be rounded but slightly narrower than the hips. The hips should be well rounded, smooth and full all the way to the base of the hindquarters with no protrusion of the hips to mar the total effect. The truly proportioned body of the Dutch rabbit is the picture of elegance.
Head
The rabbit’s head should be rounded and full, not pear shaped, with a short neck making the head set close to the shoulders. Ideally not more than one and a half fingertip widths of the index and middle fingers should fit between the base of the head and the beginning of the shoulders on a senior animal, one over 6 months of age.
Ears
The ears should be stocky, well furred and carried erect. They should be in proportion to the size of the head and body of the rabbit.
Eyes
The eyes should be bright and clear, free of spots or discoloration in the iris. The color of the iris must be the same in both eyes and must match the color specified for the variety.
Feet and Legs
The feet and legs must be straight and of the proper length and size to balance and be in harmony with the body of the rabbit. Toenails must be white in all varieties. Nails of any other color than white are a disqualification.
Fur
The fur should be short and dense while course enough in guard hairs to offer resistance when stroked backwards toward the head and when released the hair should fly back to its natural position and lie smooth over the entire body of the rabbit. The coat should have a rich high luster with a dense undercoat.
BRC: They come in Black, Blue, Steel Grey, Chocolate, Yellow, Tortoiseshell , Brown Grey and Pale Grey. There is also the Tri Colour Dutch which is classed as a different variety. Everything is the same as for the Dutch rabbit except that one cheek must be orange, the other black The ear on the orange cheek side should be black and the ear on the black cheek side should be orange. The saddle consists of alternating bands of orange and black.
Appearance
The American Rabbit Breeders Association standard calls for a small to medium rabbit. Dutch are a 4-class breed. Junior bucks and does are those under 6 months of age with a minimum weight of 1.75 lbs (0,793kg). Seniors are 6 months of age and over, weighing between 3.5 (1,58kg) and 5.5 lbs (2,48kg), with 4.5 (2,04kg) being the ideal weight. Dutch are to have a compact, well-rounded body; rounded head; short, stocky, well-furred ears; and short, glossy "fly-back" fur. Six colors (in conjunction with white) are recognized for show:
Black, a dense, glossy black with a slate blue under-color. Deep, solid and carrying well down to the skin, with blue under color, the deeper the better. Free from white hairs and mealiness or flecking. Eyes dark hazel /dark brown.
COLORS:
Blue, a medium blue-gray with a slate blue under-color. Deep, solid, slate blue, color to carry well down to the skin. Blue under color, the deeper the better. Free from white hairs and flecked or mealy coat. Eyes dark blue/blue-gray.
Chinchilla, (the newest variety to be recognized by the ARBA) an agouti color with bands of pearl white and black with a slate blue under-color. The ears must have black lacing. Eyes-- brown (preferred).
Chocolate, a rich chocolate brown with a dove-gray under-color. Deep solid dark chocolate, color carrying well down to the skin. Under-color to match the top color as near as possible. The deeper the under color the better the top will appear. Free from white hairs and mealiness. Eyes hazel/dark brown (with a ruby cast), the deeper the better.
Gray, (UK: Brown Grey) an Agouti color similar to that of the American cottontail, with bands of color on the hair-shaft which produce a ring effect when blown into. The bands of color should be a light tan, a thin charcoal band then a darker tan over a slate blue under-color. Slate blue at the base followed by a band of yellowy orange then a black line, finishing by light or nut brown tips to the fur. The whole interspersed by black guard hairs. That is the impression gained when the fur of the brown grey is parted. The general impression should be light or nut brown on ears, cheeks, body, hind feet and top of tail, the whole ticked with black hairs. Belly color and eye circles (small as possible) bright straw color. A lighter shade permissible under tail. Eyes hazel/Dark Brown, deeper the better.
Steel, (UK: Steel Grey) a black color with off-white tips to the hair-shaft on some hairs. The under-color is slate blue. Dark steel grey merging to pale slate blue in the under-color. The whole interspersed with black guard hairs. The medium bright and evenly ticked shade is the one to aim for and the extreme tips of the fur will be tipped with steel blue or grey. The mixture to carry well down the sides, flanks and hind feet. Belly color will be a lighter shade varying with the top color. Upper part of the tail to match the body color; underside to tone with the belly color. Ears to match body, Eyes deep hazel/brown
Pale Grey - Top color biscuit carrying well down and merging into pale slate at the base, the whole interspersed with black ticking. The general impression should be biscuit tipped with black on ears, cheeks, body and top of tail. Belly color white with pale slate under-color. Eye circle white but ideally non-existent or as small as possible. Body color should be present on hind feet. Underside of tail white. Eyes hazel.
Tortoise, (UK: Tortoiseshell) a bright, clean orange with slate blue shadings along the ears, whisker beds and hindquarters. the under-color is dark cream. An even shade of orange top color to carry well down and shading off to a lighter color to the skin. Ears, belly and under the tail blue-black. Cheeks and hind quarters (flanks) shaded or toned with blue black. Eyes hazel/dark brown, the deeper the better.
In the UK, Yellow (no US equivalent) and Pale Grey (US: Gold) Dutch are also recognized for show. An even shade of yellow throughout. The exact shade is not so important as that the color should be even and extend to the belly or undercut and no eye circles. In fact, a self color free from chinchillation on cheeks and hind feet. Eyes hazel. Chinchillation - A mixture of colors ticked with a darker shade, often found on the cheeks of yellows. The steel, pale and brown grey are chinchillated varieties to a certain extent.
Description of terms used: Flecking or Mealiness - Individual hairs more than one color in selfs. e.g. Blacks should be black at the tip of the fur, that color carrying down the fur as far as possible, then merging into blue. In flecked or mealy exhibits the individual fur would be black, then dark grey, then a deeper shade before merging into blue at the base.
New varieties under development in the United States include Harlequin (UK: Tri-Colored Dutch) (a pattern of black and orange patches) and Chinchilla.
The BRC has a separate standard for Tri-Coloured Dutch.
Despite its popularity, the Dutch rabbit has not changed much over the years. The most striking aspect of the breed is the marking pattern:
The blaze is an even wedge of white running up the rabbit's face. It is shaped by the cheeks which are the rounded circles of color on either side of the face. The neck marking is a white wedge on the back of the head. The saddle is to be a straight line running behind the shoulders and continuing underneath the rabbit to the undercut across the belly. The stops are located on the rear feet, which should be white from the toes to a point one third the length of the foot.
Cheeks:
Cheeks are to be well rounded and carried around the whisker bed, but not into it. Faults include the cheeks being hooked (i.e. not well rounded and coming sharp to the jaw bone), meeting the line of the neck, or dragging into the mouth or throat. Faults also include the cheeks being to high, whether above the whisker bed or appearing as eye circles.
Blaze:
The blaze is the marking along the face. It should be in a wedge shape and about medium width. The blaze should cover the nose, whisker bed, and tapering up to the ears. Although, there are no additional points added, it is desirable to have a hair line (where the blaze goes between the ears and connecting to the neck marking).
Neck:
The neck marking is the white part on the collar behind the ears. It should be a clean and wedged shape marking. An animal with no or full neck marking is not disqualified, but is faulted. Dirty necks (where it is not a clean shape) will be faulted.
Saddle:
The saddle marking is point on the upper body where the white fur meets the colored fur. This should begin just behind the shoulders and create a perfect circle around the body.
Undercut:
The undercut is the marking on the under-body that connects to the saddle. It should create a perfect circle and should be close behind the forelegs, but touching them. It is a disqualification if the body color extends past the elbow joint of the foreleg.
Stops:
Stops are the white spats or stockings on the back feet starting from the toes and reaching up to a point one-third the length of the foot or hock but must never extend above the hock joint. It is important that they be of equal length. Clean cut on both feet, and form perfect circles around the appendage. That is to say the line should not be biased or offset. Nor can there be drags. A split Stop occurs when the body color runs down and between the toes and is a disqualification as is the case when the white stop runs above the hock joint.
On the hind feet, the stop markings should be well rounded. There should be white from the toes to about one third of the length of the foot, where the color fur begins. Disqualifications include if the color fur of the marking runs completely and between the toes. The toes can be separated for identification of the split stop.
Hairline
The hairline is the thin line of white hair running from the top of the Blaze between the ears, entirely dividing the cheeks and ears and connecting the white Blaze to the white Collar behind the ears. The hairline is a desirable marking but is very difficult to achieve and no points are awarded nor taken away by it presents or absence. Sometimes only a partial hairline exists and fails to fully connect the Blaze to the Collar and may appear only as a spot of white between the ears. In such cases the spot is not considered a blemish or disqualification. A perfect hairline, however, can be the single discriminating mark of perfection that allows a judge to pick a best of show or breed over second best, or best of breed of opposite sex.
Dutch Rabbit Personality
The Dutch Rabbit is in general a calm, easy-going rabbit. They make a good domestic pet, are friendly and are easy to train. Dutch rabbits are considered an easygoing, friendly, intelligent breed. Of course, generalizations always have exceptions. Discuss the personality of any Dutch you’re considering adding to your family with the rabbit rescue operator, breeder, or person you might adopt from. Also, quietly observe the rabbit for several minutes to see how he or she looks and acts.
Care should always be taken, as the rabbit can be a bit jumpy and wary by nature. The body of the rabbit is very delicate. Owners that are new to rabbits need to receive instruction on the proper way to pick up and handle their new pet, as it is very easy for the rabbit to be injured if handled carelessly. Unlike cats and small dogs, rabbits have a natural fear of being picked up and handled and will need time and conditioning to adjust. When young bunnies are handled carefully and they learn to trust their people early in life they will become very overt in their display of affection. Rabbits can be trained to recognize their name and to even come when called. They will especially enjoy sitting on its owner’s lab, snuggling, and being attentive.
When interacting with any rabbit, earn their trust before you attempt to touch them or pick them up. Give them time to settle into your home before introducing them to the entire family or to your friends. Observe your new furry friend to learn his or her likes and dislikes, and allow them to approach you to interact with you on their terms. Always move slowly around your rabbit, and learn how to properly pick them up before attempting to do so.
Rabbits are fully capable of inflicting injury to a person with their claws, particularly the rear claws. Periodic trimming of the nails, proper handling and some common sense will usually prevent most injuries. Some breeders wear arm protectors to prevent scratches to their forearms when handling their rabbits. Occasionally, rabbits will show aggressive behavior in the form of biting although this is normally the exception. When bites are delivered, it is usually more of a pinch then a true bite. A rabbit, however, is fully capable of delivering a serious bite if provoked sufficiently.
Dutch Rabbit Care

Caring for a Dutch rabbit begins with offering a healthy diet and a safe, loving home. Get these basics down, along with some extras, and your Dutch should thrive.
Feeding:
Every rabbit raiser has their own preference on what pellet to feed. It is, however, important to feed a high quality pellet. Supplements, again, are the owner's preference. It's very important that any rabbit gets Timothy Hay in their diet on a daily basis. Timothy will help prevent intestinal obstruction. Fresh water on a daily basis is an important key in maintaining a healthy and conditioned rabbit.
The key food for rabbits is hay. Both clean, fresh hay and clean, fresh water are two things rabbits must have free access to at all times. The type of hay matters. For healthy adult rabbits who aren’t nursing, fresh grass hay rules. This includes timothy, orchard, oat, and other grass hays. Young rabbits, nursing mothers, or sick rabbits need the added calories and extra protein and calcium from alfalfa hay. Hay is important for rabbits because chewing it provides a wonderful way for rabbits to wear down their constantly growing teeth. This can prevent some dental problems.

Besides hay, rabbits enjoy eating leafy greens and vegetables. Fruit is also appreciated, but the sugar content means you must offer only small portions. Consider vegetables and fruit as treats, particularly fruit. You don’t want your rabbit filling up on these and not eating enough hay. Consult your veterinarian about which vegetables and fruits are safe for rabbits to eat.

A pelleted food formulated specifically for rabbits is a small but important part of the rabbit diet. This provides vitamins and minerals that might otherwise be missed.

Housing:
All rabbits require a well ventilated area to help prevent disease (i.e. pasturella). Dutch are a relatively small breed and don't require a very large cage, usually 24"x24" is a good sized cage.

Your rabbit’s habitat needs to be spacious and outfitted with a litter box, bedding, food and water dishes or bottles, toys, and hideaways. This could apply to a rabbit-proofed room, an exercise pen, a large cage, or some other accommodation that fits into your home. Keeping your bunny’s abode clean is as important as outfitting it and placing it in a good location. Daily spot cleaning, weekly cleanup, and a monthly deep clean promote good health and happy bunnies.

Bunnies? Yes. Rabbits are social animals and most prefer to hang out with another bunny or two. If you do adopt multiple bunnies, be sure they get along. And to prevent unwanted pregnancies, keep them in same-sex groups or have them spayed/neutered. Spayed/neutered rabbits actually face fewer health risks as they age, because reproductive cancers are almost eliminated.

But just because your bunnies have buddies doesn’t mean they entertain themselves. Be sure to interact with your furry friends daily. Petting your rabbits, playing games with them, and just hanging out adds to their life, and yours.

Rabbits do a lot of self-grooming, just like cats. Bunny pairs and groups also help groom each other. But rabbits still need help from you to keep their nails trimmed and their fur brushed. Rabbits with longer fur especially need daily brushing to prevent mats. Regularly check your rabbit’s ears, mouth, and area around the tail for signs of any problems. Note: Rabbits rarely need baths. If you choose to bathe a rabbit, never submerge him or her fully in water. Keep the water level to an inch or two. When drying, be gentle and keep them warm, but not hot, until fully dry. This can take a while for wool or rex breeds.
Dutch Rabbit Health

The average Dutch rabbit seems no more or less susceptible to the usual rabbit ailments. Among those are GI stasis, malocclusion, respiratory disease, mites, and, in un-spayed females, uterine cancer. A healthy diet, a safe, clean home, and plenty of chances for daily play and interaction minimize many of the health risks. Rabbits with blue eyes might be more sensitive to light.

Be aware that if the environment is uncomfortable for you, it’s likely uncomfortable for your rabbit. This is particularly true about warm temperatures. Keep your rabbit in a cool area, ideally no more than 70 degrees Fahrenheit, to minimize the risk of heatstroke. Rabbits tolerate cooler temperatures better than warmer. And keep in mind that higher humidity can make temperatures feel warmer.

Contact your rabbit-savvy veterinarian if your rabbit suddenly changes behavior or routine, or if he or she has unusual discharge from anywhere on the body. A rabbit who stops eating, drinking, or eliminating needs immediate veterinary care.

Breeding:
The gestation period for a Dutch rabbit is usually between 28-32 days. Average size of litter is around 6 kits. Kits are born blind and eyes will open anywhere between 7-14 days.
The goal of every responsible rabbit breeder is the challenge of producing animals that best reflect the standards of perfection in type and marking for their breed. The first step for the new breeder is to build a base to start from. That is best done by purchasing the highest quality pedigreed stock the breeder can afford. This is normally accomplished by visiting rabbit shows and buying from reputable and experienced breeders who often bring to the show breeding quality rabbits from their stock that they are willing to sell. With that done, the real work can begin. With every great task undertaken, the devil is always found in the details and this is no less true than when working with the variables of genetics. Once the breeder is armed with a fundamental understanding of genetics plus the skill to recognize the strengths and weaknesses in his or her base breeding stock, that knowledge can be put to work matching prospective breeding pairs. The key to producing quality animals always rests with selective breeding to cultivate and enhance positive characteristics while culling out the less desirable. The design of the breeding program is the search for the elusive perfect rabbit.
In the search for perfection, probably few other rabbit breeds is the bar raised higher than it is for the Dutch. Considered the fancy rabbit, the pursuit of near perfection in its markings is a true test of patience and perseverance on the part of the breeder. In the case of the Dutch, it almost seems that if something can go wrong it will. From a cheek that is too long to stops that are uneven to a slight spot on the end of the nose, all are faults and imperfections that either can be a disqualification or at least points lost at the judging table. Don’t get me wrong, this is not a complaint. On the contrary, it is a statement about what makes raising Dutch Rabbits so challenging and interesting. If it were easy to raise the perfect Dutch Rabbits everyone would be doing it. And what personal satisfaction would there be in finding success at something that offers no challenge.

Purchasing:
When purchasing a Dutch rabbit, it is important to keep in mind the purpose of the rabbit you are about to buy (i.e. breeding, showing, pet). No matter what the purpose is, it is very important to keep the health of the rabbit in mind and do a good examination on the rabbit first. Check the teeth for any signs of malocclusion (long, lower incisors extending in front of upper incisors, etc.) teeth problems are hereditary and it wouldn't hurt to see the sire & dam's teeth (if applicable). Check the ears for any dirt that may resemble ear mites. It is extremely important to look at the nose, eyes, and forearms, for any evidence of a cold or upper respiratory infection. For a show or breeding rabbit, it is important to look at the bone structure of the animal. Check the hind legs for straightness and there is no evidence of cow hocks (where the hind legs are turned so the toes are pointing outward). Check for pinched hindquarters (where the hindquarters taper towards the tail and are not well rounded). Check vent, especially a buck to be sure both testicles are noticeable. Check toe nails and eye colors to be sure it is the appropriate color via the Standard of Perfection, which can be purchased on the website for ARBA, it is listed under publications. If it will be your first show or breeding rabbit you purchase, it helps to have the Standard of Perfection with you as a reference to what you want. Remember, there may be no such thing as a perfect Dutch, but there is a difference between a good and a bad Dutch.

Life Span
The average adult Dutch Rabbit will weigh between 4 to 5 ½ pounds and on average will live 5 to 8 years Longer life spans can be expected if the animals are neutered or spayed. The longest life span that has been reported is 15 years with 10 years not all that uncommon.

Summary
Today Dutch remain one of the most popular rabbits, both as pets and show animals – not to mention as stars of rabbit product advertisements. The Dutch is one of the very best breeds for a child to start with due to its small size, general hardiness, and gentle disposition. In America, the breed is supported by a close-knit body of fanciers called the American Dutch Rabbit Club.

https://lafeber.com/mammals/dutch-rabbit-breed-info/#Dutch_Rabbit_History
http://www.home.netspeed.com.au/reguli/DutchRabbit.htm
http://mom.me/pets/small-pets/19118-popular-pet-rabbit-breeds/item/dutch-rabbit/
http://www.bunnybunch.nl/informatie/konijnenras-hollander
http://www.dutchrabbit.com/aboutthebreed/aboutthebreed.html
http://www.verlannahill.com/AboutDutch.htm
http://rabbitbreeders.us/dutch-rabbits
http://www.roysfarm.com/dutch-rabbit/
https://www.raising-rabbits.com/dutch-rabbit.html

Folk-Tale

Ossaert

Ossaert (also known as Oessaart, Oschaert, Osgaard, Osschaart, Oeschaart and Griepke) was once an ordinary dog that belonged to his owner: Bornes (Henricus Bornius, 1617-1675). His owner was an infamous man, known for his cruelty. He found no peace in the afterlife, and neither did Ossaert. Both of them remained to haunt their residence in Kloosterzande, until the building was demolished in 1856. Ever since, Ossaert became a notorious water demon, both in Zeeland, Gelderland and parts of Belgium. Most prominently, he appears in the form of a black dog with firey eyes. It is said he also takes the shape of a rabbit, horse or donkey, and that he can expand in size. Again others say he appears as a bull with a human head, always pulling heavy chains where he goes. Some people even described him as a blue light.

http://www.pitt.edu/~dash/type0570.html#ashliman
Jesper the Hare Herder
Denmark
There was a king who had half a hundred hares. He also had a daughter who was exceptionally beautiful. Many suitors came to her, but none succeeded, for her father had decreed that he would give her in marriage only to the person who could tend half a hundred hares for three days in the woods, bringing them all back to the palace every evening. Anyone who attempted to do this, but failed, should have three strips of skin cut from his back, with salt and pepper sprinkled into the wound. He would then be banished from the land or be fined five hundred thalers.
In spite of these harsh conditions a number of suitors tried their luck, but none of them succeeded.
Now there was a man who had three sons: Povl, Per, and Jesper, and they wanted to try their luck.
Povl, the oldest, presented himself first, and was accepted into service. The next morning he went out with the hares.
As soon as they had closed the gate the king said, "You must take care of them," but they were hard animals to care for, because as soon as they were outside they scattered in all directions.
Povl saw no more of them, although he ran hither and thither, both far and wide. He had brought a snack with him from the palace, so when he got hungry he sat down to eat.
Then an old woman came up to him and said, "Won't you give me a bite from your snack, little chap?"
"No, I won't. I don't have enough for myself," he said. "Just be on your way."
"Yes, I'll have to be off again," she said, and went on her way."
After Povl had eaten, he of course again began to think about collecting the hares. "It doesn't look good," he said to himself. "How shall I find the hares and gain control over them?"
He ran, and he sought, but he could not round up the hares, and in the evening he came back to the palace empty-handed. Then three strips of skin were cut from his back; pepper and salt were sprinkled into the wound; and finally he was banished from the land, for he had no money to pay the fine.
At home his parent heard the news, and they were very discouraged. Nonetheless, Per, the second brother, wanted to try his luck as well. He reported to the palace and was also accepted into service. The king told him that he was to take care of the hares as soon as the gate was opened. But the next morning when they opened the gate, whoosh, the hares scattered to all four corners of the world. And, briefly stated, it did not go one whit better with him than with his brother.
The same old woman came to him and asked for food, but he also said to her, "No, be on your way. There's nothing here for you."
In the end, three strips of skin were cut from his back; pepper and salt were sprinkled into the wound; and he was banished from the land.
The old parents were terribly angered to learn this. But then Jesper, the youngest son, came to them and asked permission to try his luck. He felt sure that luck would be with him and that he would win the princess. Until now he had never asked anything of them. The mother, in truth, held him in the highest esteem, so he was allowed to set forth.
Approaching the palace, Jesper met the king behind the barn, but he did not know that it was the king.
Jesper said, "Will you go in to the king, greet him from me, and tell him that I would like to serve here as the hare herder?"
Why?" asked the king.
"The king has proclaimed that the one who can tend his fifty hares for three days shall have his daughter to wife, and I would like to have her.
"So that's it," said the king, "but do you also know, that if you cannot tend them, three strips of flesh will be cut from your back? And you should know straightaway that I am king."
And thus the situation was decided.
Jesper's service was to begin the next day. The hares were driven out, and as soon as the gate was opened, whoosh, they scattered in all directions, and not a trace of them was to be seen anywhere.
"This is crazy," thought Jesper. "What kind of hares are these? How is this going to end?"
He wandered about in the woods with his lunch-bucket under his arm looking for the hares. Growing tired and hungry, he sat under a tree to eat his snack, when the old woman came up to him and asked if he would not give her a little piece of bread.
"Yes," he said, "you may as well eat my entire snack. I probably cannot eat anyway, and here is a big piece of meat; you may have it as well."
What is the matter with you?" she asked.
"Oh, I have taken on myself to win the princess, and now all the hares have run away. I cannot find them, and because of that I must now be banished from the land and never again see my father and mother."
"Right, but we can find some help for you, because you were so good to me. But let's eat first."
When they had finished, she took the gnawed bone and gave it back to him, saying, "I have made a flute from it, and when you blow into one end you can bring all the hares to you whether they are ever so far away or whether they are than under lock and key, if they are still alive. But if you blow into the other end, they will run away again to all corners of the world so fast that no one can get hold of them. You must always keep the flute with you, and if you use it right, you probably will have the good fortune to win the princess."
Then the old woman said farewell and thank you, and went her way.
"Thanks also to you," said Jesper and I can believe that he was glad for this flute, thinking that his difficulties were now over.
As soon as the old woman was gone he gave it a try, and everything went well enough. When he blew into one end, all fifty hares came running up to him at once, and when he blew into the other end, they fled away like the wind.
When it was evening he blew hares together, and dancing around him they entered the king's gate. The king himself came out to count them, and they were all there. Then he went to the queen and talked to her about what should be done.
"We cannot let it be known that such a fellow is getting our daughter."
They put their heads together, and at last the king said that the next day the princess should disguise herself and go out to him and seek to buy a hare from him Thus he would be lacking one when they were counted.
In the morning when the hares were let out they ran away as usual, but Jesper thought, "Let the critters run. I'll win the princess anyway."
Soon afterward, while he was lost in his own thoughts, a ragged urchin girl came to him and asked if she could not buy one of his hares. Her parents, she said, had guests and nothing fresh to offer them.
"No, I cannot sell you one," he said, "for they are not my own, and I need a full count in the evening when I get home."
Yes, she knew that, but still she asked what he would take for one.
Finally he said, "If I lose the princess it would be the worst thing that could befall me, but if you must have one, you will have to give me a kiss for it."
Yes, she agreed to do this, and she gave him what he asked for. Then he blew the hares together and gave her one of them in her apron. She made her way homeward, happy about the arrangement that she had made, but just as she reached the gate, Jesper blew on his flute, and whoosh, the hare jumped from her apron and was gone. With a sad face the princess went to her mother and told her what had happened. But she said nothing at all about the kiss.
So there was another discussion as to what should be done, and the king and the queen together decided that the queen should go out and give it a try. So that afternoon, disguised in old clothes, she went out into the woods to Jesper and asked if she could not buy a hare.
"No," he said, that was not possible, for they were not his own.
She begged and promised so well that he finally agreed to let her have one.
He blew the hares together, picked up one of them by its hind legs, and said, "If you want this one you will have to lift up its tail and kiss its behind."
The queen thought that this was disgusting, but she would have to go through with it rather than to let her daughter marry such a fellow and be plagued with him throughout her life. Furthermore, no one would see her do it.
So she got the hare, put it in a sack, and walked toward home with the sack on her back. But just as she was entering the gate Jesper blew on his flute, and whish, the hare jumped from the sack, leaving her standing there with a very sad face.

Then she went to the king and told him part of what had happened, adding, "Now you yourself must go there, and do better than we have done. It is all about our daughter's happiness.

"Yes," said the king, "but let us see what happens this evening. It could be that he will not bring all of them home."

But, in fact, he was tired of the game. "Am I some miserable wretch who cannot keep hold of a hare?" he thought.

That evening Jesper blew his hares together, and they obediently followed him to the palace grounds. The king came down and counted them, and they were all there.

Well, the third day arrived, and Jesper went out with his hares. A little later the king, disguised as a huntsman and riding a dapple-gray horse, went out as well.

Meeting Jesper, he said, "You have many hares out here."

"Yes, I have half a hundred," said Jesper.

"Would it be possible for me to see one of them."

"Yes."

Jesper blew on his flute, and all the hares came running up to him..

"Could I buy one of them?" asked the huntsman.

"No, that's not possible," said Jesper, "for they are not my own. They belong to the king, and I have agreed to the conditions that if I do not keep all of them, then I will be banished from the land and punished further as well."

"Oh, it won't be that bad for you," said the huntsman. "I will pay you whatever you ask for."

"I agree with that," said Jesper "Stand by your horse and kiss it right under its tail, and then I'll give you a hare."

The king turned as red in the face as an angry turkey-cock. It was terrible that such a simple oaf would dare to say such a thing to him.

But he held his temper and thought, "If no one sees it, there will be no shame in it. I'll do what he says."

So he stood by the horse, lifted up its tail, and kissed the beast right in its behind.

Afterward he got the hare and put it in his saddlebag, which he buckled tightly shut. "It will stay there," he thought.

But just as he arrived at the gate and was about to ride through, Jesper gave his flute a little tweet and whish, the hare was gone.

"He is a dangerous lad," thought the king, and he was quite abashed that he had had no better luck than the others.

That evening the lad came home with the hares at his heels, jumping and dancing. It was a delight. The king came down and counted them, and of course they were all there.

In the meantime the queen and the princess had spoken to the king, claiming that Jesper's task had been too easy.

The king agreed with them, so after the hares had been counted, he said to Jesper, "By rights you should have my daughter, but I find that you have won her too easily. You must admit that she will bring you great happiness. Therefore it is not unjust that one of these days I should give you a new test. If you can fulfill it, you shall have my daughter. So it shall be."

Of course Jesper was not pleased with this, but because he could do nothing about it, he decided that the best thing would be to accept it cheerfully.

Now the new task was to be extremely difficult, so there was to be a council to judge it. The king issued an invitation to all the princes and great lords who were unmarried to a grand feast when he would give his daughter away. They came from far and near, and gathered in the palace on the appointed day. After all the guests had eaten, the king commanded that a large brewing vat be placed in the middle of the room.

Then he said, "Now, princes and lords, bear witness that the one of you who can tell this vat full of truths, he shall have my daughter."

Then they began to tell stories, one after the other, but nothing came from the contest.

Finally the king said, "Yes, we probably should have called on Jesper the hare herder. Let him try his luck."

So it was Jesper's turn. He was not very good at storytelling, he said, but that could not be helped, so he would just relate how it went the other day when he was looking after the king's hares for the first time:

"A girl in ragged clothes came to me and wanted to get a hare from me. She begged long and hard, finally promising to give me a kiss for one. She got the hare, and I got the kiss. And this girl was the princess, is that not so?"

They all looked at the princess, and she turned red in the face, but then stood up and said yes.

"Do you want to hear more?" asked the boy.

"Yes, the vat is not yet full," said the king.

So he continued: "In the afternoon of the same day an old woman came to me, and she too wanted to get a hare from me. At first I said no, but she kept begging, and finally I promised her a hare on the condition that she kiss its behind, and she did it too. And that woman was the queen. "

"What are you saying?" cried the king. He stood up, and they all stood up as all.

"Oh, never mind, let him have our daughter," said the queen.

Everyone stared at her, and the boy said, "Is it not true?"

"Yes," she admitted, but did not relate the whole story.

"Should I tell any more truths?" said the boy.

"Yes, the vat is not yet full."

So he began again: "On the third day I went out with the hares, and a huntsman came by, riding on a dapple-gray horse, and he wanted to buy a hare from me, offering me gold or whatever I wanted, if he could have one. We finally agreed on a price: He was to stand by his horse, lift up its tail, and kiss its behind. I could see that he did not want to do this, but finally he did so anyway. And this huntsman was no one other than ..."

"Stop! Stop! That's enough! That's enough! The vat is now full," said the king. He had heard enough.

So Jesper got the princess and half the kingdom.

The king put on the wedding, and it was so joyful that it was heard throughout the land. Jesper sent for his parents, so they too could be present, and I was there as well.

I did not leave until late at night. They did not let me go until they had given me some of the wedding feast. I got beer in a scarf and bread in a bottle. Then they gave me a paper gown, a hat made of butter, and a pair of glass clogs for my feet. As I went outside the door my butter hat melted, and it ran down around my ears; and when I reached the pavement my glass clogs shattered. Then the wind tore my paper gown apart. I was about to eat a piece of bread to give myself strength, but when I broke the bottle to get at it, the bread fell into the dirt in the street. When I opened the scarf to drink a drop of beer, the beer ran out into the gutter. So there I stood, naked and barefoot and hungry and thirsty.

As I stood there they shot a cannon salute for Jesper and the princess. The cannonball came flying by, but I was quick and jumped on it, and thus I was shot home to the others in order to tell them this story.

 Word of the week:  Measure

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