E4 - Is the Belay Competency Drop Test Still Valid?

Topics:

What is the Belay Competency Drop Test?Brief history of past papers and arguments discussing the topic.How do you have a good test to test something where you have to let go of it to make it work?Is there a way to account for the human element?Is there a better test?If one line fails, is it still controllable?Where do you want your best guy?What is the safest belay system?When was the last time there was a main line failure during a real operation as opposed to training?

Links:

1:05 ASTM F2436 - 14(2019) https://www.astm.org/Standards/F2436.htm4:05 John Dill, 1991, Are You Really on Belay?, Part 1 (from Response Magazine, Summer 1991) https://caves.org/section/vertical/nhback/NH32.pdf4:05 John Dill, 1991, Again.....Are you REALLY on Belay, Part 2 (from Response Magazine, Fall 1991) http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/OnBelay.Thorne.20071.pdfRussel McCullar, An Analysis of the Modern‐Day Belay: Competent Belay or Competent Belayer? http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/McCullar-Belay-ITRS-2017-Revised_12.pdf13:10 Kelly Byrne blog discussing not letting go: http://rescue2training.com/?p=135516:40 Link to future episode 'Belay High, Low or through and AZTEK on AZV'22:45 Kirk Mauthner, ITRS 2014 Moving Beyond 10:1 SSSF http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/008.Mauthner.2014.pdfKirk Mauthner, ITRS 2016 Dual Capability Two Tensioned Rope Systems (DC TTRS) http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/Mauthner-Presentation-ITRS-2016-v2.pdf22:55 Mike Gibbs & Kevin Koprek, ITRS 2019 Two Tension or Not to Tension, http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Two-Tension-or-Not-to-Tension_Koprek_2019.pdf23:00/23:36 Russ McCullar ITRS 2017 An Analysis of the Modern‐Day Belay: Competent Belay or Competent Belayer? http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/McCullar-Belay-ITRS-2017-Revised_12.pdf23:00 Russ McCullar ITRS 2015 An Analysis of Traditional Un-tensioned Belays and Two-tensioned Rope Systems in Rope Rescue http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/McCullar_Analysis-of-Traditional-and-Two-tensioned-Rope-Systems.pdf23:10 Tom Pendley ITRS 2017 Slow Pull Testing of 8 mm Prusik Loops in Basket Hitch and Girth Hitch Configurations http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/2017_Analysis-of-8mm-prusik-loops_Pendley.pdf23:15 Tom Pendley ITRS 2018 Belay performance testing with a Petzl ASAP Lock at the anchor http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Pendley_Petzl-ASAP-Belay-Testing.pdf23:15 Tom Pendley ITRS 2017 Slow Pull Testing of Track Line Tensioning Systems Used in High Line Systems. http://itrsonline.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/2017_High-line-force_Pendley.pdf
 33:10 Kirk Mauthner, 2016, EMBC Rope Rescue NIF Equipment Testing Summary Report https://members.bcsara.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/EMBC-Rope-NIF-Basecamp-Testing-Results.pdf
 

Additional Links:

DRR Rescue 2012 AZ Vortex Drop Testing Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PEyUnEEwdLI&feature=youtu.beSAR3 List of Belay Testing: http://sarrr.weebly.com/belays.html

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Many of the activities discussed in this podcast pose a very substantial risk of serious injury or death.Products and techniques discussed in this podcast are intended for use by specially trained professionals.Technical rescue, rappelling, climbing and the training involved are very hazardous activities. Each situation has its own unique conditions and must be evaluated by those present. Effective risk management comes from experience, proper training and good personal judgment.CMC is not liable for any damages arising from abuse or improper use of the techniques or equipment discussed in this podcast.Topics discussed are the ideas and opinions of each individual.Department protocol and regulations should always take precedence.