Len Rubenstein shares his trenchant, mixed reflections from a September visit to Ukraine, specifically the multiple burdens that the war imposes on Ukrainian society. Ukrainian morale and resolve remain strong, though gaps persist in medical rehabilitation services, including prostheses for soldiers who have lost limbs. 500 Ukrainian military medics and reportedly 20,000 Ukrainian civilians are currently held in Russian prisons, in violation of international law. Almost everyone points to the high level of mental health disorders. The war itself has changed: Russia has created the world’s largest mine fields.