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As the pandemic dragged on, Sokolow adapted her operation. Demand for the challah rose so high she couldn’t bake from home anymore. “I had to start paying for assistants and kitchen spaces, and I all of a sudden had expenses,” said Sokolow. At first, she was donating 100 percent of proceeds to charity, but as she couldn’t foot the bill for ingredients forever, she lowered her donation amount to 50 percent, and now says she gives about a quarter to different charities. She’s not sure if she’ll be able to keep it going, or if she even wants to, after her book comes out and her other work picks up to pre-pandemic levels.


The beginning of the pandemic brought massive layoffs and furloughs, insecurity and uncertainty. It was a perfect confluence of people having a lot of time on their hands and a lot of anxiety about the world for a specific type of food business to grow, one which centered on giving back to the community and spreading resources around. There was a huge need for mutual aid, and both furloughed professional chefs and amateurs sprung into action, putting their skills to use. They cooked and baked and packed meals and donated the profits, or held free street cookouts and giveaways, all to make sure their communities stayed fed and funded.


But here are some truths about what the pandemic looks like in America right now. Less than 50 percent of the total population is vaccinated. The super-transmissible delta variant is quickly becoming dominant in the country, and cases are dramatically rising in places with low vaccination rates. The country, however, still has some of the lowest documented COVID cases since the pandemic began, and most states have all but abandoned safety regulations around which businesses can operate and at what capacity (some, however, are mandating indoor mask-wearing again, and there’s an argument to be made that vaccines should also be mandated for people dining indoors). Offices are reopening and jobs are coming back. The pandemic isn’t over, but it’s as close as it’s been.


Like Sokolow, the chefs and amateurs running these pandemic aid pop-ups are getting back to work, too, which means they have less time to dedicate to mutual aid. Customers are also turning their attention elsewhere. Creators are questioning whether to keep going, and if so, how to make that doable in a reopened country in which running a business and mutual aid work have often been mutually exclusive.