Nathan Fletcher

It would be easy to assume that most big-wave surfers have Nazaré-sized egos. And maybe, some very well do. One of the most revered, influential, and unassuming modern big-wave greats named, Nathan Fletcher, however, surely does not.

“Out there…you can’t really have your ego up,” says Nathan. “You have to lose your culture, all your history, everything that you bring to the table has to be left on the beach because you’re dealing with you, and the ocean…”

Preach.

From pretty much giving up surfing to snowboard and ride dirt bikes during his teens, to changing the game at Teahupoo, Tahiti, to influencing generations of big-wave board design and safety protocols, the uncompromising Nate Fletcher blesses us with his wisdom in the newest episode of the Late Drop.

0:00:00 Global influence of Dad Herbie Fletcher, Herbie starting the JetSki movement, Different alternative parenting, Growing up a Fletcher, Quitting surfing as a teen and going to snow/skate, Finding his own path in the world

10:16 Motocross influence, Breaking something and getting to know fear in order to come back to surfing, Getting good at multiple disciplines

15:45 Gotcha Pro event in Tahiti, Quitting motocross to surf the event, Getting the wave of his life in event, Doing the Surfing Magazine Air Shows, Getting sponsored by Vans,

22:31 Becoming a heavy waterman, Using a helmet for safety, Tom Carroll’s helmet advice, Starting to tow then going back to paddling in in 1998, Using a life vest for big waves back then, Adrenaline as therapy

37:34 Big waves/Nature connecting humans to each other, Being in “the zone,” Vulnerability making you a better person, Quads on boards and Nate’s influence, Quads vs thruster vs twin fins in big waves

53:36 Giant Cloudbreak with Bruce Irons, Kohl, and Hippo, Tahiti Code Red Swell, The Wave of the swell and the wipeout,

1:06:16 Close call in Chile, Nearly drowning in Chile, His epiphany after that, Why he still surfs big waves, His realization

1:15:57 Nathan’s 5-to-Finish Questions

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