CL-135 Secret Handshakes & The Spirit of Chicago — The Story of Malört

There’s a masochistic element to drinking Malört, the bitter liqueur beloved by Chicagoans and reviled by others. But beneath its herbaceous and citrusy intensity, it represents much more than a challenge to your palate. To drink Malört is a rite of passage—entrance to a secret club you have to earn your way into through a tongue buckling finish and nearly a century of history. 

In his piece for Good Beer Hunting, Chicago-based freelance writer and culture journalist Josh Terry unpacks the storied spirit as only a Chicagoan could. That piece, titled “Stormy, Husky, Brawling — Chicago's Divisive Spirit Jeppson’s Malört Is For Everyone Now,” explores the core of Malört’s history, after its invention during the 1930s, but before its hipster revival in the 2010s. In this episode, we’ll talk about what it was like to dive into the endlessly debated, but deeply meaningful spirit, one that he says isn’t as bad as everyone thinks. He describes the first time he tried Malört and the rules he has about drinking it now—rule one: never drink it alone—and what he wished he could have expanded on in the piece.

We also discuss Josh Noel’s forthcoming book about Malört, how photographs and social media helped create hype in the digital age, and why this bitter spirit is more popular than ever. I’m not sure Malört is for everyone, but it definitely holds a special place for lots of people. Let’s hear from one of them—right now.