Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing
28 episodes - English - Latest episode: 6 months ago - ★★★★ - 18 ratingsKris Hampton and Paul Corsaro from Power Company Climbing and Crux Conditioning discuss the research and studies that may or may not be applicable to the climbing world.
Homepage Apple Podcasts Google Podcasts Overcast Castro Pocket Casts RSS feed
Episodes
INTRODUCING | Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents
October 23, 2023 12:00 - 8 minutes - 11.3 MBWritten in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to new levels in climbing, alternated with conversations with today’s top climbers about what inspired them about what went down way back then. Season One is focused on the 1990’s, and will tell the stories of how sport climbing came to dominate, how women climbers made their mark, and explore the...
Can Beta-Alanine Supplementation Help You Send Your Sport Climbing Project?
September 14, 2022 12:00 - 31 minutes - 42.9 MBIn the final episode of Season 2, Kris and Paul discuss beta-alanine, a nutritional supplement, and its impact on climbing performance as investigated in: Beta-Alanine Supplementation and Sport Climbing Performance Authored by Krzysztof Sas-Nowosielski, Judyta Wyciślik, and Piotr Kaczka; published in the International Journal of Environmental Research and Public Health in May, 2021. They’ll explain what beta-alanine actually is and does chemically, and how this might translate into ...
Are We Doing the Right Things When Warming Up for Climbing?
September 07, 2022 12:00 - 52 minutes - 72.2 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the difference between systematic and critical reviews, while examining what science says about warming up for sport in three reviews: Current Approaches on Warming up for Sports Performance: A Critical Review Authored by Maria Helena Gil MD, Henrique P. Neiva PhD, António C. Sousa MD, Mário C. Marques PhD, and Daniel A. Marinho PhD; published in the Strength and Conditioning Journal in August, 2019. & A systematic review of the effects of upper ...
Are Chalking Up and Shaking Out Actually Helpful or Persistent Myths?
August 31, 2022 13:51 - 50 minutes - 69.2 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the dangers of reading only the abstracts of research papers, by taking a look at what science says about chalking up and shaking out. They’ll reference multiple papers including: Use of ‘chalk’ in rock climbing: sine qua non or myth? Authored by François-Xavier Li, S. Margetts and I. Fowler; published in the Journal of Sports Sciences in July, 2001. & Active Recovery Strategies and Handgrip Performance in Trained Vs. Untrained Climbers Authored by...
What are the Anthropometric and Performance Characteristics of Modern Female Climbers?
August 24, 2022 12:00 - 52 minutes - 72.5 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul chat with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson, to examine a study that attempts to collect and compare data from female climbers: Anthropometry and performance characteristics of recreational advanced to elite female rock climbers Authored by David Giles, Kimberly Barnes, Nicola Taylor, Corinna Chidley, Joel Chidley, James Mitchell, Oliver Torr, Edward Gibson-Smith, and Vanesa España-Romero; published in the Journal of Sports Sciences in ...
Did You Punt Because Your Focus is On the Wrong Thing?
August 17, 2022 12:00 - 56 minutes - 77.2 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that explores how our attention - and where we focus it - can impact our performance: Links between Attention, Performance Pressure, and Movement in Skilled Motor Action Authored by Rob Gray; published in Current Directions in Psychological Science in June, 2011. They’ll discuss the difference between focusing attention internally or externally, and how each has been shown to affect athletic performance, especially when the pressure is on. Th...
Do Our Abilities Alter How We Perceive Hold or Move Size?
August 10, 2022 12:00 - 52 minutes - 72.8 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that looks at the relationship between an athlete’s skill level and how they perceive their environment: Embodied perception in sport Authored by Rob Gray; published in the International Review of Sport and Exercise Psychology in December, 2013. They’ll explain the idea of embodied perception in sport - the theory that how we see our environment is impacted by our ability to interact with it - with some climbing-specific examples. They’ll ...
Can We Measure How Different Energy Systems Contribute to Climbing?
August 03, 2022 12:00 - 53 minutes - 73.2 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper that investigates how different energy systems contribute to climbing performance: Climbing-Specific Exercise Tests: Energy System Contributions and Relationships With Sport Performance Authored by Marcin Maciejczyk, Michail Lubomirov Michailov, Magdalena Więcek, Jadwiga Szymura, Robert Rokowski, Zbigniew Szygula, and Ralph Beneke; published in Frontiers in Physiology in January, 2022. They’ll explain the different energy systems and how t...
Can We Accurately Assess the Movement Skills of Sport Climbers?
July 27, 2022 12:00 - 44 minutes - 60.9 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul dig into a paper that presents and then tests a method for measuring movement skills in climbing: Climbing performance analysis: A novel tool for the assessment of rock climber's movement performance Authored by Nicola Taylor, Dave Giles, Michaela Panáčková, James Mitchell, Joel B. Chidley, and Nick Draper; published in the International Journal of Sports Physiology and Performance in January, 2020. They’ll attempt to determine whether or not movement ski...
Does Strength Training Help Prevent Shoulder Injuries in Climbers?
July 20, 2022 12:00 - 38 minutes - 52.4 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul take a look at three papers dealing with the shoulder health of climbers: Application of closed kinematic chain exercises with eccentric and strength exercises for the shoulder injuries prevention in student rock climbers: a randomized controlled trial Authored by Serhii Kozin, Marian Cretu, Zhanneta Kozina, Andrii Chernozub, Olena Ryepko, Tetiana Shepelenko, Iryna Sobko, and Mariia Oleksiuk; published in the Acta of Bioengineering and Biomechanics in January...
Is Isometric Finger Testing Reliable? Which Edges are Best?
July 13, 2022 12:00 - 49 minutes - 68.7 MBIn the Season 2 premiere, Kris and Paul take a look at two papers that deal with measuring isometric finger strength in climbers: The reliability and validity of a method for the assessment of sport rock climber’s isometric finger strength Authored by Dave Giles, Oliver Torr, Thomas Randall, Remus Knowles, and Stephen Atkins; published in The Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research in January, 2020. & Which is the most reliable edge depth to measure maximum hanging time in sport cl...
Better Call Paul | International Rock Climbing Research Association Test Battery
June 22, 2022 12:00 - 47 minutes - 65.9 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that introduces and assesses a battery of ten tests designed specifically to measure climbing performance. Performance Assessment for Rock Climbers: The International Rock Climbing Research Association Sport-Specific Test Battery By: Nick Draper, David Giles, Nicola Taylor, Laurent Vigouroux, Vanesa Espana-Romero, et al. Published in the International Journal of Sports Physiology and Pe...
Better Call Paul ADDENDUM | The Male / Female Performance Gap in Climbing
June 15, 2022 12:15 - 25 minutes - 34.9 MBFor a few weeks after recording the episode on the IRCRA postion statement, some of my comments didn't sit quite right with me. They weren't false, but they weren't the whole story. In this addendum episode we look at a little more of the complete story by examining the paper: Female excellence in rock climbing likely has an evolutionary origin Published by Collin Carrol in Current Research in Physiology, 2021 Thanks to Irene Di Lauro for sending this paper in! Make sure you’re subscr...
Better Call Paul | How Should Climbing Research Be Standardized?
June 15, 2022 12:00 - 47 minutes - 65.4 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a position statement paper from the International Rock Climbing Research Association that seeks to bring uniformity to how rock climbing research is collected and presented. Comparative grading scales, statistical analyses, climber descriptors and ability grouping: International Rock Climbing Research Association Position Statement By: Nick Draper, David Giles, Volker Schöffl, et al; published in Sports Technology, 2016. *Additional studies/resourc...
Better Call Paul | How Do We Choose and Read Research Papers?
June 08, 2022 12:00 - 48 minutes - 66.7 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the process they use to choose and read research papers, both for Breaking Beta and for their own interests as climbers and coaches. *Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode: Beall’s List of Potential Predatory Journals and Publishers How to (seriously) read a scientific paper by Elisabeth Pain; published on Science; March 21, 2016. Ten simple rules for reading a scientific paper by Maureen A. Carey, Kevin L. Steiner, and William A...
Better Call Paul | Are Your Statistics Even Significant, Bro?
June 01, 2022 12:00 - 51 minutes - 71.5 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul discuss statistics and their significance with data analyst and fellow Power Company coach, Dale Wilson. He explains his views on statistical models, p-values, and more — and breaks down how we should be looking at all this data as climbers. *Additional studies/resources mentioned in this episode: Scientists rise up against statistical significance by Valentin Amrhein, Sander Greenland, and Blake McShane; published in Nature 567 (305-307), 2019. 800 scie...
Better Call Paul | What Did We Learn From Season 1?
May 25, 2022 12:00 - 51 minutes - 70.6 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul discuss what they learned from Season 1. They break down the specifics — from finger strength to injury prevention, flexibility to nutrition — that they’ll be incorporating into their own coaching and training going forward. Make sure you’re subscribed, leave us a review, and share! And please tell all of your friends who are confused and overwhelmed by the amount of jumbled and conflicting training info out there, that you have the perfect podcast for the...
Which Finger Strength Protocol is Best for Endurance?
February 09, 2022 10:00 - 35 minutes - 48.9 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul bring things full circle, ending the season with another hangboard study from Eva Lopez: Comparison of the Effects of Three Hangboard Strength and Endurance Training Programs on Grip Endurance in Sport Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzalez-Badillo; published in the Journal of Human Kinetics in 2019. They’ll attempt, once more, to determine whether or not scientific evidence exists in favor of a single hangboard protocol being more effe...
Is Creatine Useful for Climbers?
February 02, 2022 10:00 - 49 minutes - 68.2 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul discuss two papers that try to clear up the rumors surrounding one of the most popular supplements in sports nutrition: International Society of Sports Nutrition Position Stand: Safety and Efficacy of Creatine Supplementation in Exercise, Sport, and Medicine authored by Richard B. Kreider, Douglas S. Kalman, Jose Antonio, Tim N. Ziegenfuss, Robert Wildman, Rick Collins, Darren G. Candow, Susan M. Kleiner, Anthony L. Almada, and Hector L. Lopez; published in t...
Sport Climbers vs. Boulderers: Who is Stronger?
January 26, 2022 10:00 - 40 minutes - 55.8 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a study that dares to touch THE ultimate strength debate climbers love to argue about: Comparison of Climbing-Specific Strength and Endurance Between Lead and Boulder Climbers authored by Nicolay Stien, Atle Hole Saeterbakken, Espen Hermans, Vegard Albert Vereide, Elias Olsen, and Vidar Andersen; published in PLOS ONE in 2019. They’ll attempt to determine whether or not there’s actually scientific evidence determining if the stronger climbers are tho...
Does Hangboard Training Increase Pinch Strength?
January 19, 2022 10:00 - 32 minutes - 44.2 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul discuss another study seeking to determine if there’s really a best way to train on a hangboard: Hangboard Training in Advanced Climbers: A Randomized Controlled Trial authored by Saskia Mundry, Gino Steinmetz, Dominik Saul, Elizabeth J Atkinson, Arndt F. Shilling, and Volker Schoffl; published in Scientific Reports in 2021. They’ll attempt to determine whether or not there’s evidence that hangboarding can help you train more than just your crimping skills. ...
Can We Minimize Tendon Injury and Return More Quickly to Climbing?
January 12, 2022 10:00 - 47 minutes - 64.6 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul discuss another study examining a type of injury commonly seen in climbers: Minimizing Injury and Maximizing Return to Play: Lessons from Engineered Ligaments authored by Keith Baar, published in Sports Medicine (Springer Nature) in 2017. They’ll attempt to determine whether or not there’s much we can do to help prevent tendon injuries and speed up recovery time when they do occur. Tune in to find out if that friend who swears their collagen supplements are ...
How Does 30 Years of Climbing Affect Our Shoulders?
January 05, 2022 10:00 - 35 minutes - 49 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a topic that every climber has to consider during their career - shoulder health - as examined in the study: Impact of 30 Years High-Level Rock Climbing on the Shoulder: an Magnetic Resonance Imaging Study of 31 Climbers authored by Silvan Beeler, MD, Torten Pastor, MD, Benjamin Fritz, MD, Lukas Filli, MD, Andreas Schweizer, MD, and Karl Weiser, MD; published in the Journal of Shoulder and Elbow Surgery in 2021. They’ll attempt to determine whether o...
Is Flexibility a Good Metric for Climbers?
December 29, 2021 10:00 - 37 minutes - 51.1 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a study that might finally reveal why there are so many former gymnasts who can crush: Flexibility Assessment and the Role of Flexibility as a Determinant of Performance in Rock Climbing authored by Nick Draper, Simon Brent, Gavin Blackwell, and Chris Hodgson; published in the International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport in 2009. They’ll attempt to determine whether or not a climber’s flexibility is a good indicator of their climbing perfor...
Does Stretching Result in Power Loss?
December 22, 2021 10:00 - 45 minutes - 62.1 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul discuss a hotly-debated topic - not just in the climbing world but the greater athletic community: Acute Effects of Static Stretching on Muscle Strength and Power: An Attempt to Clarify Previous Caveats authored by Helmi Chaabene, David Behm, Yassine Negra, and Urs Granacher; published in Frontiers in Physiology in 2019. They’ll attempt to determine whether or not stretching in your warmup is what’s costing you that last bit of power you need to send the pro...
Is Finger Pulp the Key to Crimping?
December 15, 2021 10:00 - 39 minutes - 53.8 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul discuss the study that led to climbers everywhere both blaming and training their fingertip pulp: Measuring Lifting Forces in Rock Climbing: Effect of Hold Size and Fingertip Structure authored by Roger Bourne, Mark Halaki, Benedicte Vanwanseele, and Jillian Clarke; published in the Journal of Applied Biomechanics in 2011. They’ll attempt to determine if just how meaty your tips are can actually help or hurt your climbing. And if so, is there even anything y...
Is This the Best Hangboard Protocol?
December 08, 2021 10:00 - 49 minutes - 67.9 MBIn this episode, Kris and Paul discuss what might be the most popular study in all of climbing: The Effects of Two Maximum Grip Strength Training Methods Using the Same Effort Duration and Different Edge Depth on Grip Endurance in Elite Climbers authored by Eva Lopez Rivera and Juan Jose Gonzales-Badillo; published in Sports Technology in 2012. They’ll try to determine whether this study provides evidence for one hangboard protocol to rule them all, or if folks have just been misinterpr...
Introducing Breaking Beta | The Science of Climbing Podcast
November 01, 2021 23:21 - 5 minutes - 7.46 MBIs it possible to make research and science both more fun - and frankly - more useful for coaches and climbers? That’s what we needed to answer. Now that we’re a few episodes into recording this podcast, I can honestly answer YES. It takes a lot of work, but yes. Our goal is to do that work for you. In this podcast, coaches Paul Corsaro and Kris Hampton are getting together in the lab weekly to look at the body of research - both climbing specific and more general sports science - that is ...