Tinned sardines are an icon of Portugal. We visit a family-run shop and one of the country’s last artisanal canneries to discover why sardines are cherished by the Portuguese, how the industry started back with Napoleon and what is driving the revival of canned fish. Discover more from the country with [Portugal: The Monocle Handbook.](https://monocle.com/shop/product/2227005/portugal-the-monocle-handbook/)